a few vids of my car. this is for your aaron :P
Moderator: Series8217
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a few vids of my car. this is for your aaron :P
here you go
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kivcw_XSYMg
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pgqqzryzp8s
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=37vWbkE_YNU
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kivcw_XSYMg
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pgqqzryzp8s
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=37vWbkE_YNU
my fiero is faster then yours. the end. except you fieroX
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Re: a few vids of my car. this is for your aaron :P
I kept meaning to ask you. Do you run a trans brake? I know you had the trans built an wondered if you went with a transs brake options?
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This is video from when it was SC right? Yeah traction is a problem if the track prep isnt that great. I have only been to one track where traction was an issue but I also runn MT DR in 15 inch and they stick well. I run a 3k stall but cant get up on the stall at the line cause the car gets pushed. A trans brake would be nice but price takes it out of the equation for me.Billybo455 wrote:nope, it's a stock stall to. the car next to me has a trans brake with a 4k stall. my 60's aren't the greatest because of traction, but after i can get into it the car really takes off.
Nice runs..
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I have been thinking of running a vacum pump to help out with the brakes. I have good pedal pressure sometimes and other times not so great. Not forsure if its the cam or another issue causing it. What vacum pump did you use? I agree with the MTs being the best out there, they stick like no others. I have cut 1.6s with mine.Billybo455 wrote:thanks
yep it was supercharged. my 17" m/t are the best drag radial out there. i've cut 1.5's in the mustang on them. i don't think i need a brake. running an electric vaccum pump for the brakes and vette brakes keep my car in place.
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- Shaun41178(2)
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well in the camaro's defense. he slowed his car down to make it a drivers race. his car is a 10.5 car. he was only running a 150 shot during those runs. his car is a 383 with brodix heads, stall, line lock, stuff like that. it's prolly the best sounding v8 i've heard.
my fiero is faster then yours. the end. except you fieroX
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Yeah a 1.4 would be nice and would cut some time off at the end. I am running stock springs now and the car launches hard. Going to build some coilovers and see what # spring works the best.Billybo455 wrote:i usually cut 1.6's with mine, i'm hoping to do 1.4's with the new springs. when it quits storming i'll walk outside and take a peak at the pump and let you iknow.
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Don't go massivley high on the rears , 390 with a 10-12" spring works awesome. The GC kit is crap with a 7" spring...
I have a set of 500's on the back of the N* ...Mistake , oversteer city.
I found the best combo (when I had the 6cyl) was 390 rears with stockers up front and SD's drop spindles. The 84-87 suspension is so antiquated that a stiffer spring up front doesn't really help on an autocross.
I ran a 1" bar rear (had a 1.25) and a 84 bar upfront for autocross...
Track days I would swap to a 1" bar front to dial out some oversteer (keep me safe) Made the car less twitchy at speed and you could control a slide.
My next incarnation is gonna be a new cradle with Gen 2 RX7 front A-Arms (aluminum) in the rear and a multi link setup like a 88...
1 last crack at making a fiero handle well and not ride like a sherman tank.
Now if only I could address the lethargic steering..... Hydro electric units are becoming cheap on ebay
Oh and for those looking to save some HP look up 04 to present Toyota prius AC compressors.. about $400 used and they are ELECTRIC!!!
Got one for the LS1 Vair.... a stocker wouldn't clear the headers.
I have a set of 500's on the back of the N* ...Mistake , oversteer city.
I found the best combo (when I had the 6cyl) was 390 rears with stockers up front and SD's drop spindles. The 84-87 suspension is so antiquated that a stiffer spring up front doesn't really help on an autocross.
I ran a 1" bar rear (had a 1.25) and a 84 bar upfront for autocross...
Track days I would swap to a 1" bar front to dial out some oversteer (keep me safe) Made the car less twitchy at speed and you could control a slide.
My next incarnation is gonna be a new cradle with Gen 2 RX7 front A-Arms (aluminum) in the rear and a multi link setup like a 88...
1 last crack at making a fiero handle well and not ride like a sherman tank.
Now if only I could address the lethargic steering..... Hydro electric units are becoming cheap on ebay
Oh and for those looking to save some HP look up 04 to present Toyota prius AC compressors.. about $400 used and they are ELECTRIC!!!
Got one for the LS1 Vair.... a stocker wouldn't clear the headers.
Fuck you Shaun , one day those little boys will talk and when they do you will get yours.
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- Peer Mediator
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Doesn't the Prius AC compressor run on 200+ volts and use the other Toyota electronics/inverter to control it? Maybe you were just kidding, but if not I think you got an expensive paperweight.THE PUNISHER wrote:Don't go massivley high on the rears , 390 with a 10-12" spring works awesome. The GC kit is crap with a 7" spring...
I have a set of 500's on the back of the N* ...Mistake , oversteer city.
I found the best combo (when I had the 6cyl) was 390 rears with stockers up front and SD's drop spindles. The 84-87 suspension is so antiquated that a stiffer spring up front doesn't really help on an autocross.
I ran a 1" bar rear (had a 1.25) and a 84 bar upfront for autocross...
Track days I would swap to a 1" bar front to dial out some oversteer (keep me safe) Made the car less twitchy at speed and you could control a slide.
My next incarnation is gonna be a new cradle with Gen 2 RX7 front A-Arms (aluminum) in the rear and a multi link setup like a 88...
1 last crack at making a fiero handle well and not ride like a sherman tank.
Now if only I could address the lethargic steering..... Hydro electric units are becoming cheap on ebay
Oh and for those looking to save some HP look up 04 to present Toyota prius AC compressors.. about $400 used and they are ELECTRIC!!!
Got one for the LS1 Vair.... a stocker wouldn't clear the headers.
Did you ever run an '88 rear cradle?
Bryce
edit: muhspellin
Last edited by Nashco on Tue Jul 01, 2008 6:47 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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'88 rear is WAY better than early rear.
It can be upgraded further by moving the pivot points.
There was some controversy on the Fiero Racing List, but the end result, I believe, was that it is NOT legal under the SP update/backdate rule due to the hole which has to be cut the strut tower in order to locate the struts properly.
It can be upgraded further by moving the pivot points.
There was some controversy on the Fiero Racing List, but the end result, I believe, was that it is NOT legal under the SP update/backdate rule due to the hole which has to be cut the strut tower in order to locate the struts properly.
Will, I know I've seen you mention relocating the rear suspension pivot points a few times in the past. Did you ever actually document/lay out what you thought would work anywhere? In the not-so-distant future I might be able to put this to use and will probably be running some numbers of my own. I'm not building to any class rules, FWIW, this would be an "anything goes" build. I'd gladly start a new thread if you guys want to bounce some ideas around.The Dark Side of Will wrote:'88 rear is WAY better than early rear.
It can be upgraded further by moving the pivot points.
There was some controversy on the Fiero Racing List, but the end result, I believe, was that it is NOT legal under the SP update/backdate rule due to the hole which has to be cut the strut tower in order to locate the struts properly.
Bryce
I did some research because it sounded interesting.Nashco wrote: Doesn't the Prius AC compressor run on 200+ volts and use the other Toyota electronics/inverter to control it?
It is a 200V 3 phase 3.4kW synchronous motor. Variable frequency to control RPM and desired cooling.
Means it would need a controller #1..... and #2, it would draw about 300+ amps from a 12v battery. Typically starters are about 100 amps.
Prius is pretty big though, so you could probably get by running it at 100 amps. At least then you'd be at capacity for your alternator (probably 140 amps). You'd need to find a 200V 3 phase inverter/controller though.