Northstar Picture and Info Request
Moderators: The Dark Side of Will, Series8217
Northstar Picture and Info Request
I was wondering if you out there that have installed a N* into your Fiero's if you could post / send some of the pics that you have of the "notch" that you cut into the strut tower. I have been going through the posts of N* installs and would like a bit more info about it before I fire up the plasma to do a little "adjustments."
If you happened to have any advice about do's / dont's on it that would be appreciated as well.
Any "If I did it again, I'd do..." would be great if at all possible!
Thanx in advance.
--Allen
If you happened to have any advice about do's / dont's on it that would be appreciated as well.
Any "If I did it again, I'd do..." would be great if at all possible!
Thanx in advance.
--Allen
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- Peer Mediator
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I'm going to @$$ume that you're talking about an '88. If you have to notch the strut tower in an '84-'87 car, your engine is in the wrong place.
I think there are some pictures in this thread: http://www.fiero.com/forum/Forum2/HTML/049859.html
I was about to post Levi's build, but I realized his car is an '86.
I think there are some pictures in this thread: http://www.fiero.com/forum/Forum2/HTML/049859.html
I was about to post Levi's build, but I realized his car is an '86.
The heat distortion isn't what concerns me, it's the stuff around the shock tower, and the sparks going everywhere. The wiring to the C500, brake lines, etc. So you can do it, just be careful. The grinding wheel may not be as easy, but the sparks are much easier to control and direct.mcaanda wrote: Possibly true, but it's been a while since I used it, and it's collecting dust. Im sure that it's not going to cause that much heat distortion.
88GT 3.4 DOHC Turbo
Gooch wrote:Way to go douche. You are like a one-man, fiero-destroying machine.
Good point, I was going to map it out on the inside of the bay, and cut from the inside out -Aaron. wrote:The heat distortion isn't what concerns me, it's the stuff around the shock tower, and the sparks going everywhere. The wiring to the C500, brake lines, etc. So you can do it, just be careful. The grinding wheel may not be as easy, but the sparks are much easier to control and direct.
Brakelines and what not are also going to be replaced, as Im not sure what condition the stock stuff is in.
With this swap, I am going to remove the C5oo, as its got to be about the ugliest plug I've seen in some time. Did it with the 38oo SC I did, which really made the engine bay look much better.
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It will spark more, but the sparks are very easily controlled, and directed.Boscolingus wrote:Right angles = stress cracks
by drilling holes to start off with, you automaticaly begin with rounded corners with all of your cuts, also, a die grinder is going to spark a metric fuck-ton more than any plasma torch I've ever used.
Hey Will -The Dark Side of Will wrote:Got pics or description of what you're going to do with it?
88GT, o2 or o3 N* ( not sure which one I will use yet as I have 2 ) and the F4o 6 speed.
I've started making the mounts on it, but they have not been locked into position yet as the locating bolt holes have not been drilled. I was really looking to not cut into the tower, but it looks like its just not going to be able to happen. There was some "massaging" that I did,
( Im using a back halved cradle / car setup )
but Im not happy with that so it looks like the notch is going to be the way to just eliminate the hassle.
Last edited by mcaanda on Mon Jan 05, 2009 10:23 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Are you building your own mounts for the F40? Are you placing it so that the bellhousing flange is in the same place as stock, or so the left axle is the same length as stock?mcaanda wrote:Hey Will -The Dark Side of Will wrote:Got pics or description of what you're going to do with it?
88GT, o2 or o3 N* ( not sure which one I will use yet as I have 2 ) and the F4o 6 speed.
I've started making the mounts on it, but they have not been locked into position yet as the locating bolt holes have not been drilled. I was really looking to not cut into the tower, but it looks like its just not going to be able to happen. There was some "massaging" that I did,
( Im using a back halved cradle / car setup )
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_evqBnv4L5AI/SPtTn ... %20007.jpg
but Im not happy with that so it looks like the notch is going to be the way to just eliminate the hassle.
That's a nice fraction of a car you have there. Are you practicing on it? Buildng a badass Segway? Where's the rest?
What are your plans for the C500?
I am building my own mounts for the F4o yes.The Dark Side of Will wrote: Are you building your own mounts for the F40? Are you placing it so that the bellhousing flange is in the same place as stock, or so the left axle is the same length as stock?
That's a nice fraction of a car you have there. Are you practicing on it? Buildng a badass Segway? Where's the rest?
What are your plans for the C500?
Placement is not set just yet, Im still trying to figure out where this thing needs to sit. I have the SS Cobalt axles and am going to see about trying to use atleast one of them for the install along with the jackshaft.
Im using the back half so that I dont have to hassle with using the actual car. If I can get this thing to fit into the back of this, all I have to do is remove the BS stuff that I took out of this one for the actual car and in theory, I should be golden.
I cant Segway, their like skateboards to which I have no reason / ability to even get near. It's always turned out to be a laugh...for others.
Rest of the car was junked, and the C5oo is going to be completely removed. Im going to use a bulkhead connector for stuff that needs to go into / out of the cab of the car. All rear wiring that only goes into and out of the connector will be moved and not have to be hassled with again.
- crzyone
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Do yourself a favor and build a pre 00 N*. Nothing but problems with the 2000+ ignition system. The ONLY advantage of the 2000+ is the roller valvetrain but I'd just upgrade the 99 and older heads with better valve springs and retainers.
More aftermarket for the older motors and easy to use GM ECUs. Whipped can sell you a programmed 7730 to run a N* like a factory motor.
If you are up to tackling the ignition system with something other than the Big Stuff 3 then all the power to you... If I didn't go through all that BS I would probably still own the car.
Hell, I'd do the 99 and older just to install a set of ITBs which are for sale on Old Europe.
More aftermarket for the older motors and easy to use GM ECUs. Whipped can sell you a programmed 7730 to run a N* like a factory motor.
If you are up to tackling the ignition system with something other than the Big Stuff 3 then all the power to you... If I didn't go through all that BS I would probably still own the car.
Hell, I'd do the 99 and older just to install a set of ITBs which are for sale on Old Europe.
- crzyone
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I didn't just let the rubber burn out like most guys. I heated the metal around it and they just pop out.p8ntman442 wrote:who did that thread where they were burning out the old cradle bushings? Nobody cared about sparks or flames then.
phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=2523&highlight=bushings