hub/stub/outer CV separation and interchange

[Atilla the Fun]

I'm working on my '85 Cavalier, I bought it to be a parts car for my '84 Fiero. Since the LSx/F40 is nowhere near done, I'm working on installing the 2.0L/TH125c for the winter. So, the Cav's hubs can't go on the Fiero, and the Fiero's M/T axles won't work with the TH. I think I read somewhere that the MT outer stubs are different and larger than the AT stubs. The MT stubs are from the medium size FWD chassis so have more splines? So, how do I separate the outer CV joints? I want to take the Cav guts and feed them into the Fiero outer stubs. This is a direct fit, right? Or do I need some of the '97 Bonneville parts I have? I assume those axles are too long. Do I need to hunt up some axles and stubs and hubs from an AT Fiero? And if so, '88 versions won't work, correct? Lastly, I don't want to destroy the parts of my MT axles in case the car gets another Getrag 282, but I don't mind disassembling them since they're useless with the F40. TIA.

[Atilla the Fun]

I still need the interchange info, but I found this how-to video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o8iZpjPG ... re=related

[Atilla the Fun]

Just for fun, I measured the seal surfaces of the TH125C inner stubs, and the 4tt60E inner stubs. The TH125C was an insignificant bit larger. So I tried to put the B'vile's driver-side stub into the driver's side of the TH125c, and it wouldn't go, even with the snap ring removed. The splines did match up, butthe fit was too tight, even with all the splines cleaned out well. It could probably be forced.

[Nashco]

The auto axles are smaller than the manuals. The outer stubs themselves are the same, but the CV inside of it is sized appropriate for the axle IIRC. It seems to me the path of least resistance is to get Fiero A/T axles and call it done, but if you want to go all McGyver on it, it IS possible....just not as easy.

Bryce

[CincinnatiFiero]

Atilla just buy a set of fiero a/t axles.

[Atilla the Fun]

I may have to buy A/T Fiero parts, but I have all these parts from 3 different GM transverse app's, and money is tight. I'm pleased to hear the stubs are the same, now I just need to do some more work. Before it gets rreally cold.

[CincinnatiFiero]

Buy used fiero a/t axles, you don't need the new ones as its temporary, and a 2.0L is hardly worth spending like $200 on new axles. People give away auto axles. Im sure someone on this board has a set.

[Atilla the Fun]

I'd still have to pay shipping, and I just now spent half my disposable monthly income to Aaron for a shifter and stuff.

[CincinnatiFiero]

I wish you'd started earlier, I had about a dozen GM axles that I scrapped when I moved. Had all the inners and outers, and shafts from auto and manual fieros. Would've given them to you. My goal is to get my 84 auto parts car up here by winter, but don't you want your swap done by winter?

[Atilla the Fun]

I'm hoping to have it on the road by February, because my S-10's front end needs rebuilt, new bushings and ball joints. When the S-10 fails inspection, I'd like to be able to have the Fiero driving. I may buy yours if you're offering, but not this month. Thank you for being considerate and friendly.

[CincinnatiFiero]

Well if you time table is february, shit I'll get you some A/T axles. You can have them too.

[Atilla the Fun]

that's very generous. Any '84 Muncie stuff you need? Since it doesn't work with my F40, I don't need it.

[CincinnatiFiero]

Don't thank me yet, I have yet to follow through.

[Atilla the Fun]

Just the offer is friendship, unless it's malicious, which I doubt. And friendship alone should merit a "thanks". By the way, what about the mounts for the TH125c? I can offer you $90 on Nov. 4th, for parts and shipping.

[Atilla the Fun]

This is still a problem. There are no snap rings, I even tried clamping an axle in a vise and beating on the stub with a BFH. How do I pop the exle out? Anyone, PLEASE tell me the secret! TIA

[Nashco]

There are snap rings. Remove as much grease as you can, you'll see them. IIRC, the axle has a groove with a ring that compresses around the axle shaft. It's not a brute force thing, it's a finesse thing. The most important thing to do is clean all the grease so you can see what you're doing and your pliers won't just slip off.

Bryce

[Atilla the Fun]

Thank you for the help, Bryce. What noone had ever specified before is that the snap ring is only visible maybe 1/6 th of the way around, which is just insane. But now that I got that, I'll go try the Cavalier axles again, they may be useful after all.