Thermostat controlled engine oil cooler.

[KurtAKX]

Anybody got any recommendations or favorites? Any experiences you'd care to share before I drop the coin?

I wouldn't mind having an engine oil heat exchanger that's oil/water like the one in my Crown Vic cop car.

Thoughts?

[Atilla the Fun]

The only non-GM oil cooler I ever tried was an entry-level version by Perma-Cool. It was hooked up in an '85 Camaro, in place of the A/C condenser. The engine was set up for a maximum of 40 psi, according to an Auto Meter electric gauge. After a year of daily driving, the cooler was starting to weep oil in several places. I had mounted it as they intended, using the stuff they had included. If I ever need another one, I'm going straight to their racing version, which was claimed to be good to 100 psi. It did cool the oil really well. This was when I lived down in Georgia. I used synthetic oil at all times, and I taped cardboard over the oil cooler in the winter. No other problems, besides the weeping.

[KurtAKX]

The 3.4 DOHC has an oil cooler that's backed by coolant, right? Like an oil filter adapter/extension?

I imagine I could run that setup on the Duke since it takes the same oil filters with the same base (10111/3387/PF47 and 24011/3980/PF52 in Purolator/Fram/AC-speak)

[CincinnatiFiero]

This it?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/10131053 ... 0003r10744

[KurtAKX]

That's exactly what I was thinking of!

Anybody know of a reason why I couldn't/shouldn't use this style oil cooler?

[CincinnatiFiero]

I would image the air/air setup would work better.

[The Dark Side of Will]

Why would you think that?

I've posted links in a couple of places on this forum to a marine oil/water heat exchanger in the $100 range. I have one and it will be going onto my car when I get back. The oil/water units keep oil temp within 20-30 degrees of coolant temp and even help warm the oil up faster than an air oil cooler.

[KurtAKX]

I imagine he's probably thinking about that rate of heat transfer thing, the log mean delta T or whatever. I get that in practice, a liquid can carry away a lot more heat per unit volume than water.

I'd like for the oil to warm up instantly to 212F to eliminate moisture from blowby, but not really go over 250 for oil (additive) life.

What does the long center stud look like for the 3.4 DOHC? I wonder if it's threaded compatibly to the Duke. This would work great because I already have to do some funky coolant routing on the front side of the motor for the turbo (baby Garrett TB2522)

BTW, where is a cheap place to get the oil and coolant fittings for the T2-T25 turbos? I just can't bring myself to trust any of these ambiguous eBay retailers that claim everything fits everything, and have 3840586769583089 feedback from doing 8573492 transactions per day, and therefore don't have time to respond to my emails. Plus, the stuff they sell seems like total garbage.

[Unsafe At Any Speed]

Why would you think that?

I've posted links in a couple of places on this forum to a marine oil/water heat exchanger in the $100 range. I have one and it will be going onto my car when I get back. The oil/water units keep oil temp within 20-30 degrees of coolant temp and even help warm the oil up faster than an air oil cooler.

Don't water/oil systems raise coolant temps as well though? Coolant temps are one of the reasons I picked up an external oil cooler for my race car.

[Atilla the Fun]

Why would you think that?

I've posted links in a couple of places on this forum to a marine oil/water heat exchanger in the $100 range. I have one and it will be going onto my car when I get back. The oil/water units keep oil temp within 20-30 degrees of coolant temp and even help warm the oil up faster than an air oil cooler.

Very true.

[Atilla the Fun]

I'd like for the oil to warm up instantly to 212F to eliminate moisture from blowby, but not really go over 250 for oil (additive) life.

Add an electric oil heater like some diesel engines use. You plug them into your house about 15-30 min before trying to start the engine...

[CincinnatiFiero]

It just seems to me like an air/air cooler that sat in the front of the car, or saw a lot of air in the back of the car could cool better, by better I mean a lower temperature overall, if it was cooler out and the car was moving faster the air/air should be able to do a better job, but that's dependent on the conditions. I haven't studied heat transfer so I'm not really qualified to make that inference, it's pretty much coming out of my ass. But if you wanted to keep to warm it and keep the temperature constant, the coolant cooled unit would be better. So yeah I guess I agree now, the coolant version is better.

[The Dark Side of Will]

But if you wanted to keep to warm it and keep the temperature constant, the coolant cooled unit would be better. So yeah I guess I agree now, the coolant version is better.

Since oil viscosity changes with temperature and you want your oil to be a certain viscosity when your engine is up to temp, the coolant HEX is better because it keeps the viscosity consistent whether the outside temp is 30 or 130 (assuming you have enough cooling system capacity to deal with the extra heat load, which is pretty small compared to the waste heat from the cooling system).

[CincinnatiFiero]

Alright I agree and follow, ice cold oil wouldn't be a good thing.

[Series8217]

I have an ebay oil-water cooler. I think it's a Volvo part. It works on the DOHC. The ebay link above is the factory DOHC cooler. The good thing about the factory one is it has a boss for the oil pressure sending unit. The aftermarket ones make it a little hard to fit the sending unit..

[Indy]

I imagine he's probably thinking about that rate of heat transfer thing, the log mean delta T or whatever. I get that in practice, a liquid can carry away a lot more heat per unit volume than water.

I'd like for the oil to warm up instantly to 212F to eliminate moisture from blowby, but not really go over 250 for oil (additive) life.

What does the long center stud look like for the 3.4 DOHC? I wonder if it's threaded compatibly to the Duke. This would work great because I already have to do some funky coolant routing on the front side of the motor for the turbo (baby Garrett TB2522)

BTW, where is a cheap place to get the oil and coolant fittings for the T2-T25 turbos? I just can't bring myself to trust any of these ambiguous eBay retailers that claim everything fits everything, and have 3840586769583089 feedback from doing 8573492 transactions per day, and therefore don't have time to respond to my emails. Plus, the stuff they sell seems like total garbage.

http://www.aptuning.net/4_size_Oil_inle ... tg-029.htm

The Function7 fittings are pretty good too, have a set for my GT37. They also make a dedicated T25 drain flange.