Told you before.... LS1 + Skyline =
![Very Happy :-D](./images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
![Very Happy :-D](./images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
![Very Happy :-D](./images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
![Very Happy :-D](./images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
If I were getting a CTS-V, I'd turbo it, but that's just me.
Moderator: crzyone
While some of it is dust, the rest is permanent. It's crazy that they used to be silver. I guess I'm using them right out there on the track.The Dark Side of Will wrote:"brake dust" is always the best color for calipers.
There is a 8.8 kit now as well, but I initially went with the 9" for the how complete the kit is to include the driveshaft and axles. That said, based on how long it took me to actually get the kit, I probably should've just gone with the 8.8. Now that I have it though, sticking with the 9". Not really neccesarry at my current power levels, but my diff is on it's way out and I needed a new driveshaft anyway. Plus, I do plan on a high hp build in the future. I want to upgrade the trans to a T6060/T56 hybrid as well.The Dark Side of Will wrote:You're getting pretty serious with that monster.
Is there a Ford 8.8 kit? The 9" is very strong, but also inefficient. You'll lose power through it to parasitic loss and need significant diff cooling on track. The inefficiency is why Ford no longer uses it.
I've heard of the SKF hubs over on http://www.corner-carvers.com
I've been thinking about them for upgrades to The Mule.
Do the V's use the same hubs as the Vettes?
I know a little bit about Mach V from when I used to be on the DSM forums all the time.The Dark Side of Will wrote:I've had a smidge of welding done at Mach V Motorsports.
http://www.machv.com/
They're a Subaru-oriented Subaru/Evo shop. They have a good reputation and their welder/fabricator is supposed to be pretty good also.
I had my car dyno'd at
http://www.mooreautomotive.com/
They're an Evo oriented Subaru/Evo shop. They had some decent rides there when I was there, but I've heard more about their dyno tuning than their fab work.
I just today heard about Sterling Hot Rods from a reliable source (restored a '65 Vette...)
http://sterlinghotrods.com/
They look capable of decent work, but I've never been by there.
Got a pic of what needs to be done? How hard is a complete subframe pull-out vice doing the work in situ?
I can hook you up with a welder who can fix anything but the crack of dawn and a broken heart... but he's in Lynchburg, so there are logistical complication.
Unsafe At Any Speed wrote:I know a little bit about Mach V from when I used to be on the DSM forums all the time.The Dark Side of Will wrote:I've had a smidge of welding done at Mach V Motorsports.
http://www.machv.com/
They're a Subaru-oriented Subaru/Evo shop. They have a good reputation and their welder/fabricator is supposed to be pretty good also.
I had my car dyno'd at
http://www.mooreautomotive.com/
They're an Evo oriented Subaru/Evo shop. They had some decent rides there when I was there, but I've heard more about their dyno tuning than their fab work.
I just today heard about Sterling Hot Rods from a reliable source (restored a '65 Vette...)
http://sterlinghotrods.com/
They look capable of decent work, but I've never been by there.
Got a pic of what needs to be done? How hard is a complete subframe pull-out vice doing the work in situ?
I can hook you up with a welder who can fix anything but the crack of dawn and a broken heart... but he's in Lynchburg, so there are logistical complication.
It actually requires the rear cradle to be dropped from the car. Not that complicated from the looks of it, just a lot of little things to do that I won't have the time or space to do once I move (just going to get an apartment somewhere until I get back from my deployment). Here's a writeup of how to do the job:
http://ls1tech.com/forums/cadillac-cts- ... te-up.html