zok15 wrote: ↑Thu Mar 02, 2023 12:04 pm
Check the gasket or o-ring on the pump inlet. Make sure it is seated properly. Also to bleed, I put the front on a jack, car not running, and cycle lock to lock like 100 times. Always works for me. Don't go too fast though. It is almost definitely vibrating from air in the pump, often this is at the inlet, worst case it is at the rack and you need new seals or a new rack.
so, I've actually done that multiple times now, upon install, I did it, and several times after hearing the noise. today, I went out and cycled the rack for over an hour, because I don't have a way to measure the noise, I can't say this for sure, but it might be a little worse now than it was before I started today.
I did a tightness check of the fittings, they were tight, I also bought a vacuum bleeder adapter to vacuum bleed the rack:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mva- ... eid=srese2
I pulled a vacuum on the system and let it sit, it held that vacuum for over 10 minutes unchanged. then I cycled the rack, and vacuum drop an inch. cycled again, dropped again... being that there was vacuum applied to the return side of the system, I'm fairly confident that the return line from the rack isn't leaking, because none of the pressure side fittings are leaking power steering fluid, I'm fairly confident that they aren't the problem either, which leaves the rack seals, which should be ok, because the rack only has about 1000 miles on it, when I had the front end apart, I threw a new one in because it would be easier to do with everything out of the way, BUT, if it were the seals in the rack, fluid would leak out somewhere right? at this point, I'm going to live with it until it(the noise, or the car) goes away, or I have to replace the clutch and have the powertrain out.
zok15 wrote: ↑Thu Mar 02, 2023 12:04 pm
I have a love hate relationship with drilling out broken studs and re-tapping. I am good at it, but it sucks and is stressful. Seems worthwhile to go with better flowing heads and save the headache.
I have access to a machine shop I could have quick easily extracted the bolts in, but, when I had the parts on the shelf, it was a no brainer. in this case, I probably would have welded a nut to the remains of the stud, and it probably would have pulled out, but this seemed easier, especially when I already had gaskets on the shelf.
zok15 wrote: ↑Thu Mar 02, 2023 12:04 pm
Definitely interested in what it dynos at, how quick is it? Also a driving sound clip or some stationary revs would be nice to hear
by modern standards? it's not quick at all... lol! using a GPS ap on my phone it's said low 7's 0-60, but that's also with wheelspin, and needing a tune still. I made some tune changes today that seemed to cause it to pep up a bit, honestly, at idle, it sounds ok, cruise, it sounds ok, mid range, it sounds pretty awful, or at least in the car it does, outside it may sound OK? I'm wondering if changing the tips out might help with the sound, right now it has tips similar to a Fiero GT's.
here's a short sound clip of some free revs, shot with my phone sitting on top of the decklid, so don't expect much. I might try and get a drive by clip later.
https://youtube.com/shorts/RwPO1oWaGVU?feature=share
"I am not what you so glibly call to be a civilized man. I have broken with society for reasons which I alone am able to appreciate. I am therefore not subject to it's stupid laws, and I ask you to never allude to them in my presence again."