rebuilt a nissan 5 spd today.

[p8ntman442]

My dads girlfriends 95 nissan altima tranny was grinding like crazy, so I rebuilt it today. Its internals are strikingly similar to both the izuzu and the muncie/getrags I have done.

anyways a few things we did that may help in fiero tranny rebuilds you guys do. This may all be common knowledge to many of you, but some may find it useful I hope. [Sorry no pics.

bearing races: most came out easy with an over the center bar (otc) its a long pry bar with a a curved hook on the end. Use two to pull evenly on the bottom edges of the race to remove from the case.

Final drive tapered roller bearings: I couldnt press these off due to their proximity to the ring gear, so I used a pair of side cutters to cut the cages off the bearings and removed the outer cage and rollers. Then used the torches to heat the internal ring and again two otc bars to pull it off. (Wear gloves as that ring is hot and will come off the shaft hard and may fly at you). In this case one side had the spedo drive gear, as in the fiero trannies as well. To do this side, rather than heating the inner ring, I used a hammer and a chisel to knock the ring off the shaft.

Ball Bearings: These are used as detents and can get tricky to work with. A long thin magnetic tool is necessary. The Detents are held in by bolts and are spring loaded agains the shift shafts. Getting them out of their holes may require the magnetic tool. (retrieveng them when you drop them down into the recesses of the case will.) when reinstalling them, use a thick all purpose grease to hold them in place. This will not harm anything. This grease can also be used to hold other tiny pieces in place like when putting a synchro back together.


Shift shaft replacement: I have sucessfully installed the shift shafts (rails) onto the double set of gears and installed as a complete unit into the case several times before. Thios particular tranny did not permit that to happen and I found a much better way to do in the process. By removing all the drive pins from the shift shafts the synchro ahift forks and the other linkages attached can all be placed in their respective places and then the shift shafts can be dropped in and the drive pins hammered back into place.


Sensors: remove all sensors from the case asap. to prevent damage, Replace them last, this includes the speedo.

Fluid: This tranny called for GL-4 which has an equivalent sae rating of 75w-90. Napa caries this. I have seen and used 5w30 in fiero trannies, and that difference is something to note. If I could find a suplier of Redline MTL, or Royal purple MTL I would buy it but nobody sells that stuff around here. I will have to go online to get it next time I do a rebuild. Remember you can always change the fluid after you know your rebuild worked.


Hope this helps, and anyone else with tips feel free to add your comments below.

[MNFatz]

You don't happen to have a 'generic' source for bearing race shims do you?

The local Chrysler dealer has them but they sell them for around $4.00 each. I was hoping for an assortment of several dozen to keep myself stocked for awhile.

[p8ntman442]

No i dont. I buy all my tranny parts from portland transmissions which is local, and no where near portland, go figure. Try calling some tranny part supply houses and see if they have kits, specifically for your applications, I doubt you can get an assortment kit like you want because most trannies are so different. My 3.91 muncie/getrag used a thick shim on the input shaft, where as this nissan used two very thin large diameter shims. That would be an extensive kit to cover most applications.

Just curious why do you need new shims? yours wear out?

also PM bryson, I think he had a good source for blocker rings and synchros, I know somebody on OE did. That same source may have what your looking for, atleast in an aplication specific form.