Code 12 on 3.4 DOHC!!
Moderators: The Dark Side of Will, Series8217
Code 12 on 3.4 DOHC!!
I pulled the codes from my 93 DOHC Fiero today. It flashed code 12, so I started pulling the motor to get this fixed. I plan to ship the motor to WCF to get it rebuilt to get rid of this damn problem. I was told this is the best way to fix code 12, so it has to be done. Has anyone ever gotten their car to run right after getting code 12?
Where exactly would this clutch switch be? Will it work with a Fiero getrag? I've never heard of anything like that.
Yeah, a french smoothie. Guess you've heard it.
I also am trying to figure out why the speedo isn't working. Everything under the dash seems to be hooked up.
I'm out there tearing it apart and will report back if I find anything. Or if I think of anymore real funny jokes.
Yeah, a french smoothie. Guess you've heard it.
I also am trying to figure out why the speedo isn't working. Everything under the dash seems to be hooked up.
I'm out there tearing it apart and will report back if I find anything. Or if I think of anymore real funny jokes.
well the clutch switch is on your pedal. whether it's hooked up to your computer or not.....
you also need to check that your computer has a pull up resistor for the speedo to work. I think for the fiero speedometer, you also need a capacitor to change it into an AC signal.
See here:
http://dtcc.cz28.com/fiero/speedo2.gif
You don't need the diode. The values are pretty loose, so use whatever you have.
you also need to check that your computer has a pull up resistor for the speedo to work. I think for the fiero speedometer, you also need a capacitor to change it into an AC signal.
See here:
http://dtcc.cz28.com/fiero/speedo2.gif
You don't need the diode. The values are pretty loose, so use whatever you have.
Clutch Switch: I doubt the previous owner hooked this up, it is fairly common to leave it undone on 3.4 swaps. This is the wiring diagram from http://www.gmtuners.com, and this is how it is setup (And working), on my car. This is for the 9396 ECU. Basically, there are a brown and yellow wire going to the switch that's by your pedal. Cut these a few inches up, and on the car side of the wires, put them together. On the switch side of the cut wires, yellow goes to ground, brown goes to D22 on the ECU.
Speedometer: I also doubt the previous owner hooked these up correctly, as they are pretty easy to reverse. There is no need to make the circuit thingy above, that just complicates things. There should be a purple and a yellow wire traveling from the VSS on the trannsmission to the C203. You should also have a yellow and purple wire from the ECU for your speedo. Take the yellow wire from the ECU, and T it into the PURPLE speedo wire. Do the opposite for the purple wire from the ECU, T it into the yellow speedo wire.
On the ECU, C2 is the purple wire for MAG. VSS signal Low. This should be continous with the yellow wire from the VSS to C203 G.
On the ECU, C8 is the yellow wire for MAG. VSS signal High. This should be continous with the purple wire from the VSS to C203 R.[/img]
Speedometer: I also doubt the previous owner hooked these up correctly, as they are pretty easy to reverse. There is no need to make the circuit thingy above, that just complicates things. There should be a purple and a yellow wire traveling from the VSS on the trannsmission to the C203. You should also have a yellow and purple wire from the ECU for your speedo. Take the yellow wire from the ECU, and T it into the PURPLE speedo wire. Do the opposite for the purple wire from the ECU, T it into the yellow speedo wire.
On the ECU, C2 is the purple wire for MAG. VSS signal Low. This should be continous with the yellow wire from the VSS to C203 G.
On the ECU, C8 is the yellow wire for MAG. VSS signal High. This should be continous with the purple wire from the VSS to C203 R.[/img]
88GT 3.4 DOHC Turbo
Gooch wrote:Way to go douche. You are like a one-man, fiero-destroying machine.
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The Dark Side of Will
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The cruise control has been removed from this car. The original car is equipped with it, but the servo and stuff in the engine bay has been removed.
You do have to push the clutch in for the car to start.
I got sidetracked with yard work for now. Not sure what to do since the wiring in this car is such a mess. I think I am going to remove the motor and put it in another car and do the install right... if I can find the time. Selling this thing is starting to be the best possible solution for me.
You do have to push the clutch in for the car to start.
I got sidetracked with yard work for now. Not sure what to do since the wiring in this car is such a mess. I think I am going to remove the motor and put it in another car and do the install right... if I can find the time. Selling this thing is starting to be the best possible solution for me.
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Shaun41178(2)
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Why? Why not just fix the one he has?Shaun41178(2) wrote:There is a dohc wiring harness on NEverland right now with comptuer. Send it out to Erik and he can prob do it up for you. Send it back and plug it and an woila. Maybe?
Hell it's just about perfect as it is, with a few issues. Big deal, he explains the issues, we explain exactly how to fix them.
In the second pic, in the tunnel under the shifter. What's that black box? It's taped down and I can't get it out. Stuck in there good.
I think Travis only had red wire when he wired in the starter button. There are 2 switches that need to be flipped on for power. One of them must have broken because one day it wouldn't start. I jumped it to the other one and got things working again.
I think Travis only had red wire when he wired in the starter button. There are 2 switches that need to be flipped on for power. One of them must have broken because one day it wouldn't start. I jumped it to the other one and got things working again.