I've built a 3.4 DOHC setup on the '88 cradle outside my '86 Fiero based Corson Spyder. The Spyder is using the Held Wide-Track suspension ( 6" wider) with a big Wilwood brake setup and the rear is, currently, using the Held Bump-Steer kit and adj. coil-overs.
In the next few weeks I'm hoping to take a few days off to switch the cradles. The exhaust is done (Used the two front manifolds approach,) the transaxle is attached with a SPEC Stage II clutch pack, as are the axles & brakes. I used the Held '88 cradle swap kit & adj. coil-overs, etc. Harness & ECM are done (Thanks Eric & Darth.)
Just wondering about the fuel, cooling & A/C hookup. Any preferred methods or hints as to the best way to accomplish these last steps?
Thanks.
See my Spyder at:
http://home.alltel.net/rbeem/RICKS~1/Spyder.html
3.4 DOHC into a '86 with a '88 cradle - Down to the wire
Moderators: The Dark Side of Will, Series8217
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ricksmastermix
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The Dark Side of Will
- Peer Mediator
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Series8217
- 1988 Fiero Track Car
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87-88 Fiero 2.5L AC lines will bolt up and fit perfectly once you counterbore the stud hole on the compressor side of the block that attaches to the compressor. The 3.4 DOHC compressor uses a stud instead of a bolt, and the stud is on a raised boss. You just need to make room for that so the block sits flat on the compressor. You will see what I mean when you try to install it.
For fuel, move the fuel filter to the left side of the fuel tank, cut off the line thats attached to it leaving a few inches, and either extend that with more hard line or run your flexible braided stainless right from there (you'll need to flare it for a fitting). For hard line, run it over to and along the left side frame rail up to the strut tower and then run flexible line from there. For the return just copy the same routing, using the factory return line to the tank with a flare fitting on it or just put bead it and clamp a hose on.
For the coolant hoses I would just bend up a piece of welding rod to the shape required, then run down to the auto parts store and look through their selection. Buy any hoses that look close and try them all. Keep the best one and return the ones that don't fit. Goodyear coolant hose part # 61721 is a near perfect fit for the passenger side coolant hose (return line). You may have to trim one end shorter but that should be all that is necessary. This hose WILL rub lightly against the trailing link on the 88 suspension. Just use some of the convoluted tubing that was on your factory hoses. It will protect it just fine. That link doesn't move much that close to the front pivot. Since you have an 86 your heater return does not T into the radiator return like on the 87-88 coolant pipes.. I'm not sure if the pipe still ends up in the same place so its possible that this hose wont fit. Let me know if it does and I'll update my swap guide (in progress) so that others know.
You can just get heater hose to run the heater send and return lines. Just attach them to the stock inlets/outlets. You will need to add a fill somewhere; I recommend adding one of the small inline fillers in the heater outlet so you can fill the block without removing the thermostat. Prestone makes these and you can get them at most auto parts stores for $1.00 or so. The heater hose is 5/8" ID.
If you choose to use a modified Fiero 2.8 thermostat housing you will have a good fill location and easy thermostat access. If you don't use it, you will have to add a filler neck to the stock radiator outlet gooseneck. A radiator shop will do this for you. I put it on top just behind the air bleed valve.
For fuel, move the fuel filter to the left side of the fuel tank, cut off the line thats attached to it leaving a few inches, and either extend that with more hard line or run your flexible braided stainless right from there (you'll need to flare it for a fitting). For hard line, run it over to and along the left side frame rail up to the strut tower and then run flexible line from there. For the return just copy the same routing, using the factory return line to the tank with a flare fitting on it or just put bead it and clamp a hose on.
For the coolant hoses I would just bend up a piece of welding rod to the shape required, then run down to the auto parts store and look through their selection. Buy any hoses that look close and try them all. Keep the best one and return the ones that don't fit. Goodyear coolant hose part # 61721 is a near perfect fit for the passenger side coolant hose (return line). You may have to trim one end shorter but that should be all that is necessary. This hose WILL rub lightly against the trailing link on the 88 suspension. Just use some of the convoluted tubing that was on your factory hoses. It will protect it just fine. That link doesn't move much that close to the front pivot. Since you have an 86 your heater return does not T into the radiator return like on the 87-88 coolant pipes.. I'm not sure if the pipe still ends up in the same place so its possible that this hose wont fit. Let me know if it does and I'll update my swap guide (in progress) so that others know.
You can just get heater hose to run the heater send and return lines. Just attach them to the stock inlets/outlets. You will need to add a fill somewhere; I recommend adding one of the small inline fillers in the heater outlet so you can fill the block without removing the thermostat. Prestone makes these and you can get them at most auto parts stores for $1.00 or so. The heater hose is 5/8" ID.
If you choose to use a modified Fiero 2.8 thermostat housing you will have a good fill location and easy thermostat access. If you don't use it, you will have to add a filler neck to the stock radiator outlet gooseneck. A radiator shop will do this for you. I put it on top just behind the air bleed valve.
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Series8217
- 1988 Fiero Track Car
- Posts: 5995
- Joined: Thu Jun 02, 2005 9:47 pm
- Location: Los Angeles, CA
A/C is too heavy for me, so it came out.
For the coolant, I used a stock Fiero fill neck, and welded an extension onto it. You can see where it ends here, I need to remove the vent and get a funnel to fill it, but it isn't bad. I'm not sure on the hoses, they came with it. The two ports ont he stock Fiero fill neck were cut off and welded closed.
You can see my fuel lines in this picture:
For the coolant, I used a stock Fiero fill neck, and welded an extension onto it. You can see where it ends here, I need to remove the vent and get a funnel to fill it, but it isn't bad. I'm not sure on the hoses, they came with it. The two ports ont he stock Fiero fill neck were cut off and welded closed.
You can see my fuel lines in this picture:
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ricksmastermix
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Series8217
- 1988 Fiero Track Car
- Posts: 5995
- Joined: Thu Jun 02, 2005 9:47 pm
- Location: Los Angeles, CA
1) Don't forget brake lines. You need longer ones for the cradle swap.
2) Parking brake cables won't interchange either.
3) You'll either need a stack of grade 8 washers for the existing rear cradle bolts or new shorter ones. You need to take up the space that used to be taken up by the rubber cradle donuts.
If you're using the held conversion kit, that's pretty much all you need for the swap.
Check out www.rodneydickman.com for the getrag linkage kits.
2) Parking brake cables won't interchange either.
3) You'll either need a stack of grade 8 washers for the existing rear cradle bolts or new shorter ones. You need to take up the space that used to be taken up by the rubber cradle donuts.
If you're using the held conversion kit, that's pretty much all you need for the swap.
Check out www.rodneydickman.com for the getrag linkage kits.
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ricksmastermix
- Posts: 11
- Joined: Sun Aug 20, 2006 2:18 pm
- Location: Atlanta, GA
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The shift linkage for a 284 swap is different than a 282 FWD unit. RodneyDickman has nothing for this one. Other considerations include:
Different splined axles, a pull-type clutch assembly and a slightly different mounting bracket for one of the mounts. Someday I'll tackle the shift linkage issue. The rest of these issues have been solved.
Check with Graeme Potts(Fiero308) at the DOHCFiero site for more information on the shift linkage. Last time I saw him, he had the linkage issue solved in theory, but had not put it to the test, yet.
Different splined axles, a pull-type clutch assembly and a slightly different mounting bracket for one of the mounts. Someday I'll tackle the shift linkage issue. The rest of these issues have been solved.
Check with Graeme Potts(Fiero308) at the DOHCFiero site for more information on the shift linkage. Last time I saw him, he had the linkage issue solved in theory, but had not put it to the test, yet.