Code 12 on 3.4 DOHC!!

whipped · Post by **whipped** » Mon Aug 21, 2006 12:40 am

shitty alarm install? that looks horrible

Nemesis · Post by **Nemesis** » Mon Aug 21, 2006 1:00 am

I think you're right. I went back out there and noticed none of the wires to it are hooked up. You can see the few coming right out of it are cut and taped up. There are 2 other wires coming from it. One mosies around a bit and is just cut, the other one I can't find where it ends.

I noticed something. This car sets off car alarms like crazy. So funny.

The Dark Side of Will · Mon Aug 21, 2006 9:11 am

Well take every wire that isn't hooked to something and pull it out. After that, look at the wires that are left and it will probably be pretty easy to figure out what's what. The nice thing about shitty wiring work is that it's frequently fairly easy to undo.

Aaron · Post by **Aaron** » Mon Aug 21, 2006 9:17 am

OMFG, what is all that shit?

Even though Erik did your harness, I don't think he wires in the clutch switch.

Nemesis · Post by **Nemesis** » Mon Aug 21, 2006 10:35 pm

What is usually done here? You can see all the clamps... not something I like. I guess that's the EGR plug hanging there?

And this red plug by the MAP is...?

And this is an aftermarket sender for a temp gauge. What do I need to run the factory temp gauge? It was leaking, so I put teflon tape on the threads and now it won't send. Should I just use thread sealant instead?

The Dark Side of Will · Mon Aug 21, 2006 10:39 pm

Nemesis wrote:And this is an aftermarket sender for a temp gauge. What do I need to run the factory temp gauge? It was leaking, so I put teflon tape on the threads and now it won't send. Should I just use thread sealant instead?

Single wire sensors like this ground through the threads. If you can't get it to seal without sealant, then just run a ground wire from the sensor body to the engine.

crzyone · Post by **crzyone** » Mon Aug 21, 2006 10:45 pm

Aaron wrote:
Even though Erik did your harness, I don't think he wires in the clutch switch.

Yes he does. He lables the wire and its up to you to run it to the front and connect it to the clutch switch.

Atleast he did on mine.

Aaron · Post by **Aaron** » Mon Aug 21, 2006 11:01 pm

Nemesis wrote:What is usually done here? You can see all the clamps... not something I like. I guess that's the EGR plug hanging there?

I hate to quote all the pics, but I'm going to. Mine doesn't have any clamps, except for one or two of these stock, small, greenish squeeze clamps. Just run 3/8" rubber hose to those vacuum ports and to wherever they go, and put a squeeze clamp where they attach to the manifold. Better yet, go to the junkyard and get the vacuum lines from a 94-95 3.4 DOHC. They will have everything you need to make it a clean, stock install. There are 2 vacuum ports there, the top one is for your PCV line, the other is for whatever you need it for (Mine's blocked off until I put my Evap box on, then it will go there). Yes, that is the EGR plug.

And this red plug by the MAP is...?

That is for the Evap control thingy. It is a little black box with two vacuum sources. One is the Evap line from your fuel tank, the other goes to a vacuum source. The box is located from the factory right behind the MAP sensor and upper intake manifold, hidden in the Luminas, but visible in the Fieros.

And this is an aftermarket sender for a temp gauge. What do I need to run the factory temp gauge? It was leaking, so I put teflon tape on the threads and now it won't send. Should I just use thread sealant instead?

That's pretty weird right there. Stock, that was a nipple for the heater core return. On my motor, it is plugged. Check to see if you have a coolant temp sender here: On the front cylinder head, driver's side. It will be right in the middle of it, kind of behind your exhaust crossover. It isn't easy to get to, but you should be able to see it. If nothing else, you'll see a plug there. If I were you, I'd leave the sender you currently have in to plug that hole, and I'd wire in the sender on the front head, where it was designed to be. Where it's at, your coolant reading will be the coolest the water is ever at in the entire system. Where it was stock, it is near the point where it will be at the hottest temp. Better safe than sorry. If you put the sender in the front head, where it should be, don't use any sort of sealer, but tighten it pretty good. It shouldn't need anything to seal it. Then leave your other sender there to act as a plug, just don't wire it in.

Best pics I have of mine:

befarrer · Post by **befarrer** » Mon Aug 21, 2006 11:40 pm

Teflon tape does not conduct electricity, and for sensors that ground through the body, putting teflon tape on cuts off the ground, and then you get no sensor reading.

MNFatz · Post by **MNFatz** » Mon Aug 21, 2006 11:43 pm

What you guys are saying about the sensors makes more than sense, but It's never happened to me once. That stuff basically liquifies and the threads cut through it when you tighted it down anyhow.

I'm going to use pipe dope next time though. Just because you brought it up.

Aaron · Post by **Aaron** » Tue Aug 22, 2006 12:32 am

befarrer wrote:Teflon tape does not conduct electricity, and for sensors that ground through the body, putting teflon tape on cuts off the ground, and then you get no sensor reading.

We've established this a few times now.

MNFatz wrote:What you guys are saying about the sensors makes more than sense, but It's never happened to me once. That stuff basically liquifies and the threads cut through it when you tighted it down anyhow.

I'm going to use pipe dope next time though. Just because you brought it up.

It's quite obvious what the problem is when he removes it (Working), reinstalls it with no change other than the tape, and it stops working. Not to mention that it is a completely logical explanation.

The Dark Side of Will · Tue Aug 22, 2006 12:34 am

Chill out.

Series8217 · Post by **Series8217** » Tue Aug 22, 2006 12:55 am

Nemesis.. its hard to tell in that pic you posted, but I think the PCV valve might be backwards. The big port on it should be connected to the crankcase and the small port to the source of vacuum.

Erik · Post by **Erik** » Thu Aug 31, 2006 1:33 am

Aaron wrote:OMFG, what is all that shit?

Even though Erik did your harness, I don't think he wires in the clutch switch.

I do in fact supply a D22 wire so that you can run the clutch switch ..it up to the customer as to whether they wan't to hook it up ..some have problems with the engine stalling without it being hooked up and others have no problem. It can set a code if not hooked up but, I haven't seen it do that so far

Nemesis · Post by **Nemesis** » Fri Sep 15, 2006 7:43 pm

Sometimes when the AC is turned on the car will die. If I got this clutch switch hooked up, would that cure that?

I also will need to get this motor to pass smog. First thing I have to do is replace the mufflers with cats. Am I going to need the EGR installed as well to pass smog?

Also, where is the thermostat on this motor? This one has a modded Fiero V6 filler, but no thermostat is in it and the car still gets a tad warm.

Aaron · Post by **Aaron** » Sat Sep 16, 2006 3:22 am

Nemesis wrote:Sometimes when the AC is turned on the car will die. If I got this clutch switch hooked up, would that cure that?

It would probably help, but, this is not at all uncommon for the DOHC. The unstable, slow-responding, and other idle issues all play into this. When an unexpected load comes on quickly, the motor can't compensate fast enough. The same applies when the RPMs fall too quickly. It's a very common problem. If I were you, I'd upgrade to the 94-97 fuel injectors, they were redesigned and fixed the phantom stall issues. If that doesn't fix it, you may want to bump your idle up 100-200rpm. I idle at 1000 with the 94-97 injectors, and it doesn't die on me anymore.

I also will need to get this motor to pass smog. First thing I have to do is replace the mufflers with cats. Am I going to need the EGR installed as well to pass smog?

Depends. If there is a visual inspection, and they are tough, you will. However if you make it look good, you could probably fool the inspector to where he doesn't see the missing EGR pieces. Or you could just put the pieces on, and not wire them in or anything. Also, the sniffer. That could get you. I had a hookup at Jiffy Lube who passed me (My car failed badly on the sniffer). I'd suggest making friends with these guys, it pays off.

Also, where is the thermostat on this motor? This one has a modded Fiero V6 filler, but no thermostat is in it and the car still gets a tad warm.

Under the throttle body, sitting on its side coming out of the lower intake. Here is a pic of mine:

Between the cam towers and the throttle body:

The black piece:

Ok, if you can't find it from those, God himself couldn't make you pass high school.

Series8217 · Post by **Series8217** » Sat Sep 16, 2006 3:33 am

Did you really need to use 4 pics of the entire drivetrain to show him where the thermostat is? What a waste of space.

The stock thermostat is in the lower intake manifold under the thermostat housing. If you're using the 2.8 thermostat housing, take out the DOHC thermostat and put one in the 2.8 housing... its easier to get to and you can remove it to fill the coolant.

TurboGT · Post by **TurboGT** » Sat Sep 16, 2006 4:59 pm

I think you can get away with out having the egr valve on the car. I would take it in and see if they notice and if they do find one in the junk yard and bolt it on, with the block off plate inbetween.

Nemesis · Post by **Nemesis** » Sat Sep 23, 2006 1:19 am

Does the strut tower need to be cut out for this motor to be in a 88?

What's the stock compression on the 93 motors?

Anyone have pics of where the stock exhaust ends in relation to the oil pan (right after the 02 bung)?

Aaron · Post by **Aaron** » Sat Sep 23, 2006 1:44 am

Nemesis wrote:Does the strut tower need to be cut out for this motor to be in a 88?

We had to chisel out the plate that is spot welded to the strut tower. It wasn't too hard to remove, and once removed, we reinforced the remaining steel, and cleaned it up.

What's the stock compression on the 93 motors?

9.25 for the automatics, 9.5 for the manuals. Great for boost, but for N/A, bump that bitch to 11.5.

Anyone have pics of where the stock exhaust ends in relation to the oil pan (right after the 02 bung)?

Best I got, let me apologize in advance to Steven, who is too impatient to scroll over 7 pictures on his T3 connection :scratch: