Code 12 on 3.4 DOHC!!

Shaun41178(2) · Post by **Shaun41178(2)** » Sat Sep 23, 2006 2:04 am

that swap looks like shit. That paint looks like shit too.

Series8217 · Post by **Series8217** » Sat Sep 23, 2006 2:49 am

What the fuck? You can't even SEE the oil pan in those pics, aaron.

Anyone have pics of where the stock exhaust ends in relation to the oil pan

The Dark Side of Will · Sat Sep 23, 2006 1:37 pm

7 pictures and none of them a good shot of what he was trying to show.

Nemesis · Post by **Nemesis** » Thu Sep 28, 2006 2:01 am

Series8217 wrote:Nemesis.. its hard to tell in that pic you posted, but I think the PCV valve might be backwards. The big port on it should be connected to the crankcase and the small port to the source of vacuum.

Please elaborate. I don't know much about this motor.

Nemesis · Post by **Nemesis** » Thu Sep 28, 2006 2:03 am

Oh, and this motor has something that clicks when it's first started and stops when it warms up.

http://s66.photobucket.com/albums/h241/ ... icture.flv

You can kinda hear it here. The sound quality went to crap after it went to photobucket. Any idea what it is? Injectors? Pushrods bent?

Kohburn · Post by **Kohburn** » Thu Sep 28, 2006 7:36 am

Nemesis wrote:Oh, and this motor has something that clicks when it's first started and stops when it warms up.

http://s66.photobucket.com/albums/h241/ ... icture.flv

You can kinda hear it here. The sound quality went to crap after it went to photobucket. Any idea what it is? Injectors? Pushrods bent?

dohc? what pushrods?

the dohc is supposed to be notorious for noisy injectors and lifter ticks until the oil thins a bit

Series8217 · Post by **Series8217** » Thu Sep 28, 2006 1:40 pm

Nemesis wrote:
Series8217 wrote:Nemesis.. its hard to tell in that pic you posted, but I think the PCV valve might be backwards. The big port on it should be connected to the crankcase and the small port to the source of vacuum.
Please elaborate. I don't know much about this motor.

Look at the side of the throttle body closest to you, between it and the rest of the intake manifold.. there's a line attached with like 4 hose metal clamps. The PCV valve is there.. take those hose clamps off and take a look at it. You'll see that one end of it has a small barb fitting for like a 3/8 or 5/16 hose, and the other side has a larger fitting for 1/2". The side with the 1/2" fitting should be connected to the crankcase vent (through that long hose you see going under the throttle body) and the side with the smaller fitting should be connected to the vacuum port there on the intake.

Nemesis wrote:Oh, and this motor has something that clicks wrhen it's first started and stops when it warms up.

http://s66.photobucket.com/albums/h241/ ... icture.flv

You can kinda hear it here. The sound quality went to crap after it went to photobucket.

Any idea what it is? Injectors? Pushrods bent?

The DOHC is notorious for losing its pushrods. You might want to check and see if they're even there so you can avoid costly repairs.

Anyway it sounds like an exhaust leak around the muffler, very loud lifter tap, or just the injectors. Take another video the same way but also revving the engine. Bring the camera around to the engine bay too and do the same so we can more clearly hear where its coming from.

Shell Rotella T 5W-40 synthetic cured my cold lifter tap.. I highly recommend trying it out.

EDIT: I r gud at speling

Nemesis · Post by **Nemesis** » Fri Sep 29, 2006 10:15 pm

OK, this damn thing is cursed. Today I started it up and went for a spin to warm it up. When I got back home and pulled in the driveway, I smelled coolant. There was a trail of coolant all the way down the block and was spilling onto the driveway. The leak was near the radiator somewhere (coolant hit the fan and went all over). I couldn't tell where it was coming from exactly, but I think it was from the coolant overflow bottle cap. After it cooled down, I started it up and added water and waited. Eventually the fan came on... then went off, no leaks. I let it run until the fan came on and went off one more time.

What the heck? Is it possible the thermostat was stuck and then unstuck? Is it because all the pushrods fell out?

I was going to get another clip of it running when hot, but kinda got sidetracked with the leak. My neighbor heard it running and had to come over and see if it was an LS1 or something and annoyed me for an hour. I also looked at the PCV valve and the bigger end is on the hose going towards the TB. Is that right?

Series8217 · Post by **Series8217** » Sat Sep 30, 2006 3:48 am

Nemesis wrote:I also looked at the PCV valve and the bigger end is on the hose going towards the TB. Is that right?

No, go look at what I wrote again.

Kohburn · Post by **Kohburn** » Sat Sep 30, 2006 10:08 am

big end comes from the crank case, either from a valve cover or the lifter valley - small end goes to the intake manifold

Nemesis · Post by **Nemesis** » Sat Sep 30, 2006 7:17 pm

I guess I had a brain fart because I ment to say the big end is towards the motor. It's right. Isn't it?

Is this the proper place for this on this motor? It just doesn't seem like it belongs there.

I'm having a hard time finding replacement pushrods. The guy at checker says they don't stock them, but could have them in a few days. He said his 1992 Fiero exploded on him because the factory V8 always ran hot. I punched him in the face and called him a dirty name.

Series8217 · Post by **Series8217** » Sat Sep 30, 2006 8:13 pm

Nemesis wrote:I guess I had a brain fart because I ment to say the big end is towards the motor. It's right. Isn't it?

Nope you have it backwards in that pic.

I'm having a hard time finding replacement pushrods. The guy at checker says they don't stock them, but could have them in a few days. He said his 1992 Fiero exploded on him because the factory V8 always ran hot. I punched him in the face and called him a dirty name.

:rotflmao:

Nemesis · Post by **Nemesis** » Sat Sep 30, 2006 9:36 pm

After following the hoses attached to the PCV, I see how stupid I be.

The rain is getting in the front spark plug holes. Is that a major concern? Can the water get past the plugs?

Today I ran the car until hot again. The fan came on and went off after it did it's job. Not a drop of coolant. Not sure what to think of the gyser I had yesterday. I guess just ignore it until it happens again.

Series8217 · Post by **Series8217** » Sat Sep 30, 2006 10:17 pm

Nemesis wrote:After following the hoses attached to the PCV, I see how stupid I be.

The rain is getting in the front spark plug holes. Is that a major concern? Can the water get past the plugs?

It wont get past the plugs themselves but it will cause misfires.
You'll need to make some kind of rain deflector.

Kohburn · Post by **Kohburn** » Sun Oct 01, 2006 10:44 am

guess i could make another rain weatherstrip peice - i've got a roll of the damn materials

Nemesis · Post by **Nemesis** » Sun Oct 01, 2006 3:28 pm

I have one of the factory pieces, part of the recall, but not sure if it would do the job.

Do both of the tension rods for the lid need to be removed? This car has both removed and the deck lid can't be lifted when the trunk is popped since there is not enough tension to get past the latch. It will just relatch. It does have a gas strut, but that doesn't do much until the deck is lifted more than half way up.

Series8217 · Post by **Series8217** » Sun Oct 01, 2006 4:26 pm

Nemesis wrote:I have one of the factory pieces, part of the recall, but not sure if it would do the job.

It won't work. I have one as well. My solution was to put a rear valve cover on the front and add an oil fill to it. The rear valve cover doesnt have that huge valley in the middle that water pools in.

Do both of the tension rods for the lid need to be removed?

No, just the one that holds up the right side.

This car has both removed and the deck lid can't be lifted when the trunk is popped since there is not enough tension to get past the latch. It will just relatch. It does have a gas strut, but that doesn't do much until the deck is lifted more than half way up.

Add another gas strut on the other side, or add the spring that holds up the left side.

Kohburn · Post by **Kohburn** » Sun Oct 01, 2006 9:33 pm

Nemesis wrote:I have one of the factory pieces, part of the recall, but not sure if it would do the job.

Do both of the tension rods for the lid need to be removed? This car has both removed and the deck lid can't be lifted when the trunk is popped since there is not enough tension to get past the latch. It will just relatch. It does have a gas strut, but that doesn't do much until the deck is lifted more than half way up.

no you need a full weather barrier that blocks all water flow between the rear glass and the decklid even when open.

i have no torsion springs on the car and a single gas strut - no problems

Nemesis · Post by **Nemesis** » Mon Oct 02, 2006 6:20 pm

Kohburn, you can pop the trunk from the cab and walk around and lift it? Mine won't get past the latch and I don't have the key to the lock. I have to wedge something under the lid and hit the switch. I even tried adjusting the rubber stops.

I found a 96 motor in a local yard. Anything I could use from it to make mine better? I won't grab the injectors or anything like that, I'd buy that stuff new. Is the intake better?

Kohburn · Post by **Kohburn** » Mon Oct 02, 2006 6:42 pm

you may need to adjust the last loop on the trunk wall down some with a mallet - this will make it so that it requires a little more force to close but along with helping the seals seal better, it provides some spring action for the latch to pop