overheating prob
Moderators: The Dark Side of Will, Series8217
-
- Posts: 1273
- Joined: Wed Jan 18, 2006 9:21 pm
- Location: Crunkville, North Cacalacka
overheating prob
hokay, my fiero will run hot unless I play with the heater/ac. The rad fan will not come on automatically, I have to use the ac, but sometimes when its idleing even with the ac on, it still heats up untill I rev it a few times, and then it will drop back down to the normal temp. Thoughts???
1998 Mustang GT
You can't piss on what you can't catch.
You can't piss on what you can't catch.
- Series8217
- 1988 Fiero Track Car
- Posts: 5989
- Joined: Thu Jun 02, 2005 9:47 pm
- Location: Los Angeles, CA
-
- Posts: 1273
- Joined: Wed Jan 18, 2006 9:21 pm
- Location: Crunkville, North Cacalacka
-
- Posts: 1010
- Joined: Sat Mar 04, 2006 12:19 am
- Location: The Peoples Republic of Kalefornya
- Contact:
- Series8217
- 1988 Fiero Track Car
- Posts: 5989
- Joined: Thu Jun 02, 2005 9:47 pm
- Location: Los Angeles, CA
-
- Posts: 1273
- Joined: Wed Jan 18, 2006 9:21 pm
- Location: Crunkville, North Cacalacka
Well, the thermostat is brand new, and I tested it before I installed it. If there is a buble in the system, could that be causeing the fan temp switch to not be reading the temp? I'd say the buble is a good posibility, because I just replaced the rad in the car, and maybe I was a dumb ass and did not do the proper refilling procedure? I'll try and head up to the shop tomowrow, to check the overflow tank, but I'm pretty sure it does have coolant in it.Series8217 wrote:Check your fan switch wiring. If the wiring is good replace the switch. The fan should be coming on automatically.
The overheating until you rev it sounds like a sticking thermostat or an air bubble. Is there coolant in your overflow tank?
1998 Mustang GT
You can't piss on what you can't catch.
You can't piss on what you can't catch.
-
- Peer Mediator
- Posts: 15629
- Joined: Wed Nov 24, 2004 11:13 pm
- Location: In the darkness, where fear and knowing are one
- Contact:
-
- Posts: 1010
- Joined: Sat Mar 04, 2006 12:19 am
- Location: The Peoples Republic of Kalefornya
- Contact:
The fan switch is on the top of the engine, which is the highest point in the system, which is where your air bubble is going to be, so conceivably that could be causing your fan switch problem if the bubble is big enough.
Also, after you fill your system using Will's procedure, put the thermostat cap back on and run the engine for a few minutes, then check again. Its gonna be hot, so be careful, but running the engine will cough any remaining air in the system up to the top again (the thermostat). May want to do it more than once to make sure its all out.
Also, after you fill your system using Will's procedure, put the thermostat cap back on and run the engine for a few minutes, then check again. Its gonna be hot, so be careful, but running the engine will cough any remaining air in the system up to the top again (the thermostat). May want to do it more than once to make sure its all out.
<Insert Sig Here>
1st - you need to get yer fan working. hit it with 12v to see if it even turns. if it does
2nd - check fan switch - I think its a "ground switch" - as in, when it closes - it closes the path to ground. so, to check, use ohmmeter, on end in the switch, the other end on ground. when temp is reached (normally, about 1/2 way on gauage) - the ohm should go from infinite/real big to zero/real small. a dial ohmmeter is better for this - you can see the needle swing. if it does
3rd - well, your fan works on 12v, and the switch works at temp - this means the wiring is bad - most likely its is the connector. its partly exposed to the elements, and corrodes easily - clean it or replace it. replaceing with a nice wheatherpack connector is a good thing
note: step 2 assumes the fan switch is a ground switch. I dont know this for a fact. but, being a 1 wire switch, I cant think what else it maybe...
2nd - check fan switch - I think its a "ground switch" - as in, when it closes - it closes the path to ground. so, to check, use ohmmeter, on end in the switch, the other end on ground. when temp is reached (normally, about 1/2 way on gauage) - the ohm should go from infinite/real big to zero/real small. a dial ohmmeter is better for this - you can see the needle swing. if it does
3rd - well, your fan works on 12v, and the switch works at temp - this means the wiring is bad - most likely its is the connector. its partly exposed to the elements, and corrodes easily - clean it or replace it. replaceing with a nice wheatherpack connector is a good thing
note: step 2 assumes the fan switch is a ground switch. I dont know this for a fact. but, being a 1 wire switch, I cant think what else it maybe...
-
- Posts: 1273
- Joined: Wed Jan 18, 2006 9:21 pm
- Location: Crunkville, North Cacalacka
-
- Posts: 1273
- Joined: Wed Jan 18, 2006 9:21 pm
- Location: Crunkville, North Cacalacka
- Shaun41178(2)
- Posts: 8464
- Joined: Fri Nov 19, 2004 7:12 pm
- Location: Ben Phelps is an alleged scammer
-
- Posts: 1273
- Joined: Wed Jan 18, 2006 9:21 pm
- Location: Crunkville, North Cacalacka