Falconer Heads with Ti Valves assembled and also my build

The Dark Side of Will · Tue Dec 19, 2006 10:51 am

Kohburn wrote:so what exactly do they prevent from rotating? the pushrods and lifters rotating is important to even wear (for flat tappets anyways)

He is using a roller cam block.

coinage · Post by **coinage** » Fri Jan 19, 2007 12:34 pm

Triple Disk FTW

The Dark Side of Will · Fri Jan 19, 2007 1:18 pm

That'll be fun to drive.

Is that a Chevy button/flywheel?

Do you have a pic of what you made to bolt it to the V6?

coinage · Post by **coinage** » Fri Jan 19, 2007 1:49 pm

its specifcally for the fiero.. i just got it back from quartermaster yesterday.

when it was being rebuilt it was switched to a triple set

Chris-Nelson · Post by **Chris-Nelson** » Sat Jan 20, 2007 7:44 pm

coinage wrote:forgot to ask.. i need valve covers with a wee-bit more clearence

Matt

Did you ever get this figured out??

coinage · Post by **coinage** » Sat Jan 20, 2007 9:43 pm

no... going to have to make customs ones

Chris-Nelson · Post by **Chris-Nelson** » Sun Jan 21, 2007 6:14 pm

So, what is causing you to need the heightened valve covers?? I'm using a high-lift cam (Crane H-272-2), the same heads as you, and the same rockers as you.. I'm guessing that I'll run into the same problem...

coinage · Post by **coinage** » Sun Jan 21, 2007 8:03 pm

ill take a picture of it

Shaun41178(2) · Post by **Shaun41178(2)** » Sun Jan 21, 2007 9:35 pm

shave the rocker arms. That should work. I have a couple of sets here that were used with larger cams then you are going to run, and they needed to be shaved a bit. You should be able to do that to yours.

Indy · Post by **Indy** » Tue Jan 23, 2007 3:37 pm

coinage wrote:its specifcally for the fiero.. i just got it back from quartermaster yesterday.

when it was being rebuilt it was switched to a triple set

I assume it's the 1 x 14 spline...
Is it a 7.25" diameter?

The Dark Side of Will · Tue Jan 23, 2007 3:56 pm

coinage wrote:its specifcally for the fiero.. i just got it back from quartermaster yesterday.

when it was being rebuilt it was switched to a triple set

Sweet! I didn't know they had a bolt-in button for GM's FWD architecture!

I downloaded the .pdf catalog from their website and didn't find that P/N in it anywhere (Acrobat search).

coinage · Post by **coinage** » Tue Jan 23, 2007 6:54 pm

I'm not sure if they sell any of it anymore... i am buying the last 2 t/o bearings they have left and then there wont be anymore of them... best way to know for sure would be to call

coinage · Post by **coinage** » Tue Jan 23, 2007 6:55 pm

Indy wrote:
coinage wrote:its specifcally for the fiero.. i just got it back from quartermaster yesterday.

when it was being rebuilt it was switched to a triple set
I assume it's the 1 x 14 spline...
Is it a 7.25" diameter?

yes to both

The Dark Side of Will · Wed Jan 24, 2007 12:24 am

Is it actually a 1 x 14 spline? The shaft is 25mm x 14. The difference may not sound like much, but this is a precision machined piece we're talking about. The shaft is 0.980ish in diameter.

Chase Race · Post by **Chase Race** » Wed Jan 24, 2007 2:35 am

Hey Matt!

As you had probably noticed, I hadn't been around here much. I just found your build thread. I skipped over it a few times because I thought it was the Heads For Sale thread (sorry, Will).

coinage wrote:forgot to ask.. i need valve covers with a wee-bit more clearence.

They don't exist. I have similar rockers in my race motor and had this problem. Is your problem that the nuts hit the bottom of the cover? When I was going through this I scrounged up a set of stamped steel covers and discovered that they're no better. You have a few options:

1) Fabricate some sort of spacer that goes between the head and the valve cover.

2) Find a sacrificial valve cover, cut a half inch thick slice out of the middle of it, slice your covers in half, and weld the new section in to make covers that are a half inch taller but look stock at first glance.

3) Get some silicon and glue two gaskets together back to back.

#s 1 and 2 require some precision machine work. This is time consuming if you have access to the appropriate tools, and expensive if you don't. I did #3 on the race car. I admit it's a hack but I figured, what the heck, it's quick and cheap so I might as well try it first. If it hadn't have worked I would have done #2.

If you try this route, here are the tricks:

On the bottom side of the botton gasket, use a razor blade to carefully trim off the little circles that fit up into the valve covers. Buy longer bolts. The new bolts won't have spacers so you'll have to torque them very carefully. Use a nut driver and not a ratchet. Tighten each bolt down until it touches the cover, then go around and torque each one to just barely snug, than go around a couple more times and tighten them just a hair as needed until they're all torqued equally and none of them are loose. You'll have to make a couple laps because as you tighten one some others get looser. Don't get them too tight or you'll start squishing the gasket out.

When I did this, it didn't leak and the bolts didn't fall out. Keep in mind, though, that my car probably never went for more than 200 miles without me pulling the valve covers to check valve adjustment (solid lifters) so I don't know if they would have loosened up eventually. Blue loctite would probably give you peace of mind.

Chris-Nelson · Post by **Chris-Nelson** » Wed Jan 24, 2007 12:22 pm

the double gasket idea sounds like it would work... this should be interesting... coinage, what are you trying for yours??

The valve cover extension machining sounds like it would be the best idea, but just too much work to solve this little problem...

The Dark Side of Will · Wed Jan 24, 2007 12:30 pm

How much clearance do you need? I might be coerced into designing a spacer suitable for cutting out of 1/4 or 3/8" aluminum. 1/2" would be harder as that would require the holes to be machined, rather than burned.

I wouldn't let a for sale thread (even my own) go this long in Tech.

coinage · Post by **coinage** » Wed Jan 24, 2007 2:15 pm

The Dark Side of Will wrote:Is it actually a 1 x 14 spline? The shaft is 25mm x 14. The difference may not sound like much, but this is a precision machined peice we're talking about. The shaft is 0.980ish in diameter.

Worked in the 2.8 until i cook the copper disks about 1.5 years ago, so i am assuming it is the correct size for the 4sp atleast

coinage · Post by **coinage** » Wed Jan 24, 2007 2:18 pm

Chase Race wrote:Hey Matt!

As you had probably noticed, I hadn't been around here much. I just found your build thread. I skipped over it a few times because I thought it was the Heads For Sale thread (sorry, Will).

coinage wrote:forgot to ask.. i need valve covers with a wee-bit more clearence.
They don't exist. I have similar rockers in my race motor and had this problem. Is your problem that the nuts hit the bottom of the cover? When I was going through this I scrounged up a set of stamped steel covers and discovered that they're no better. You have a few options:

1) Fabricate some sort of spacer that goes between the head and the valve cover.

2) Find a sacrificial valve cover, cut a half inch thick slice out of the middle of it, slice your covers in half, and weld the new section in to make covers that are a half inch taller but look stock at first glance.

3) Get some silicon and glue two gaskets together back to back.

#s 1 and 2 require some precision machine work. This is time consuming if you have access to the appropriate tools, and expensive if you don't. I did #3 on the race car. I admit it's a hack but I figured, what the heck, it's quick and cheap so I might as well try it first. If it hadn't have worked I would have done #2.

If you try this route, here are the tricks:

On the bottom side of the botton gasket, use a razor blade to carefully trim off the little circles that fit up into the valve covers. Buy longer bolts. The new bolts won't have spacers so you'll have to torque them very carefully. Use a nut driver and not a ratchet. Tighten each bolt down until it touches the cover, then go around and torque each one to just barely snug, than go around a couple more times and tighten them just a hair as needed until they're all torqued equally and none of them are loose. You'll have to make a couple laps because as you tighten one some others get looser. Don't get them too tight or you'll start squishing the gasket out.

When I did this, it didn't leak and the bolts didn't fall out. Keep in mind, though, that my car probably never went for more than 200 miles without me pulling the valve covers to check valve adjustment (solid lifters) so I don't know if they would have loosened up eventually. Blue loctite would probably give you peace of mind.

Thanks, oh and btw got the invoice today... and the pimp ass stickers.

We had thought abuot cutting one up to make it the correct size. this is pretty much on the back burner for now... top of the list is headers and upper plenum with an a/w intercooler in it.

plus i got to get started on putting that cage in :afrocool:

coinage · Post by **coinage** » Wed Jan 24, 2007 2:19 pm

The Dark Side of Will wrote:How much clearance do you need? I might be coerced into designing a spacer suitable for cutting out of 1/4 or 3/8" aluminum. 1/2" would be harder as that would require the holes to be machined, rather than burned.

I wouldn't let a for sale thread (even my own) go this long in Tech.

not sure exactly, ill try to check out how much i need today or tomorrow