Electronics nerds, please?
Moderator: ericjon262
Electronics nerds, please?
Hey.
I'm gonna toss this question up on a couple boards, and see if I can get a useful answer from either one. I'm pretty positive, but considering as though most of the information on those pages means darn near nothing to me, I want to know if there's someone that can make sense of it.
A long time ago I exploded the living shit out of a high-power APC UPS by trying to start an air conditioner off it (it was in spec, bastards! stupid starting surge). VERY stupid, yes, I know, but at least it was better than dropping a screwdriver onto the board while it was running. Mmm... I tend to do this a bit.
Anyway, the parts that seem to be affected were a set of MOSFETs on the board. Two of them are visibly damaged (aka: shattered), I don't know about the others. I also noticed two traces on the board were damaged, but that should be fixable with some hard-wiring.
Unfortunately the MOSFET chips used on the board are out of production (obviously, given the UPS is over 10 years old), and I wasn't able to find a direct part-replacement on Mouser's part search. However, I did find the original part's data sheet, and an approximate guess of what should be a drop-in replacement/upgrade.
Can anyone tell me if this part (STP35NF10) is an appropriate replacement for this original part (SMP40N10)? What specifications in those sheets are "upgradable" (e.g., say, less heat, higher capacity) with modern manufacturing, while the UPS wouldn't need any other changes? Anything at all?
The UPS uses 4 sets of 5 of these chips, and I think it's just one row that got knocked out. But is there a way to test if others aren't working properly - other than to replace the damaged ones, plug it in, and see if it fries itself?
Thanks!
I'm gonna toss this question up on a couple boards, and see if I can get a useful answer from either one. I'm pretty positive, but considering as though most of the information on those pages means darn near nothing to me, I want to know if there's someone that can make sense of it.
A long time ago I exploded the living shit out of a high-power APC UPS by trying to start an air conditioner off it (it was in spec, bastards! stupid starting surge). VERY stupid, yes, I know, but at least it was better than dropping a screwdriver onto the board while it was running. Mmm... I tend to do this a bit.
Anyway, the parts that seem to be affected were a set of MOSFETs on the board. Two of them are visibly damaged (aka: shattered), I don't know about the others. I also noticed two traces on the board were damaged, but that should be fixable with some hard-wiring.
Unfortunately the MOSFET chips used on the board are out of production (obviously, given the UPS is over 10 years old), and I wasn't able to find a direct part-replacement on Mouser's part search. However, I did find the original part's data sheet, and an approximate guess of what should be a drop-in replacement/upgrade.
Can anyone tell me if this part (STP35NF10) is an appropriate replacement for this original part (SMP40N10)? What specifications in those sheets are "upgradable" (e.g., say, less heat, higher capacity) with modern manufacturing, while the UPS wouldn't need any other changes? Anything at all?
The UPS uses 4 sets of 5 of these chips, and I think it's just one row that got knocked out. But is there a way to test if others aren't working properly - other than to replace the damaged ones, plug it in, and see if it fries itself?
Thanks!
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I don't know. If you can find out if this is an online UPS, or a standby/switch (where it switches from line to battery on powerfail), that can be important. Online UPS's are much more expensive IIRC, and would be worth the repair. Otherwise, it's easier to just get a new UPS.
Check out www.govliquidation.com . I'm sure you can find pallets worth of them there, you can't count on whether they work or not and you will for sure need new batts.
Check out www.govliquidation.com . I'm sure you can find pallets worth of them there, you can't count on whether they work or not and you will for sure need new batts.
Despite millions of dollars in research, Death continues to be our nations number one killer.
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It's a 1,500 watt 48v APC Smart-UPS... old, yes, but still high powered and expensive by today's standards (not to mention, I believe those battery packs are still in use today). Those chips are a buck a piece, too... my time is gladly exchangeable to save or make a few bucks.Starlite528 wrote:I don't know. If you can find out if this is an online UPS, or a standby/switch (where it switches from line to battery on powerfail), that can be important. Online UPS's are much more expensive IIRC, and would be worth the repair. Otherwise, it's easier to just get a new UPS.
Check out www.govliquidation.com . I'm sure you can find pallets worth of them there, you can't count on whether they work or not and you will for sure need new batts.
And p8ntman and Series, I'm soooo glad I posted this on more than one forum. :la:
'87 Fiero GT, Automatic, 153... 156... 157... 158... 161k... 163k... 165k... 168k... SHIT I LOST COUNT
Another reply I got on another forum made things a lot more clearer than the "mud" I got here...
And you wonder why I have trouble "taking" the "advice" around here... :la:After analyzing the specs on both chips, (STP35NF10) will be a viable replacement for the original part. I noticed that the avalanche charge max is a little higher on the (STP35NF10), so maybe it will handle the charge better. I hope, haha! Some aspects of it are an upgrade, and 1 or 2 are downgrades, but all in all, it will work.
As for testing the others, I would suggest an Ohmeter. Touch the outside teeth with the pos and neg prongs of the ohmeter, if a charge is detected it's good. The middle tooth is the grounder I believe.
Anyways, best luck to repairing your UPS! Happy Soldering!
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I expected those who knew shit, to come in here and provide advice, not people who didn't know a transistor from a hole in the head to come in here and say "haha u suk".Xanth wrote:Dude, this is a fucking car forum. What did you really expect?
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Well, neither of those happened.Falcon4 wrote: I expected those who knew shit, to come in here and provide advice, not people who didn't know a transistor from a hole in the head to come in here and say "haha u suk".
Instead, the people who knew shit came in here and said "haha u suk".
What should that tell you about your reputation here?
EDIT: changed "does" to "should"
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Yeah stooopid me, having that degree in electrical engineering and telling you they would work.
I really do feel stupid having given you the right answer. I could easily have rambled off some jargon you wouldnt understand and told you to keep looking just to be a dickhead, but I didnt.
Bottom line, if you cant pic a replacement chip, you wont get that thing working again. Why dont you go spend 5 years getting a degree and then you can back up your "better than thou" shit.
GO FUCK YOURSELF!
I really do feel stupid having given you the right answer. I could easily have rambled off some jargon you wouldnt understand and told you to keep looking just to be a dickhead, but I didnt.
Bottom line, if you cant pic a replacement chip, you wont get that thing working again. Why dont you go spend 5 years getting a degree and then you can back up your "better than thou" shit.
GO FUCK YOURSELF!
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So, Mr. I Can Find Better Electronics Adivce Elsewhere, what forum is that from?Falcon4 wrote:Another reply I got on another forum made things a lot more clearer than the "mud" I got here...
And you wonder why I have trouble "taking" the "advice" around here... :la:After analyzing the specs on both chips, (STP35NF10) will be a viable replacement for the original part. I noticed that the avalanche charge max is a little higher on the (STP35NF10), so maybe it will handle the charge better. I hope, haha! Some aspects of it are an upgrade, and 1 or 2 are downgrades, but all in all, it will work.
As for testing the others, I would suggest an Ohmeter. Touch the outside teeth with the pos and neg prongs of the ohmeter, if a charge is detected it's good. The middle tooth is the grounder I believe.
Anyways, best luck to repairing your UPS! Happy Soldering!
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http://www.afblues.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=2767#2767
http://www.bluehostforum.com/showthread.php?p=32410
Hmm, looks like they said the same thing, yes it will work, but you probably killed something else, so throw it away.
Just because they havent met the "you" that we know, means that their replies were nicer.
http://www.bluehostforum.com/showthread.php?p=32410
Hmm, looks like they said the same thing, yes it will work, but you probably killed something else, so throw it away.
Just because they havent met the "you" that we know, means that their replies were nicer.
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