Dyno Tuesday, Predictions?

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Aaron
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Post by Aaron »

The 2.4l DOHC Cavalier engine, in the Z24s, had the same type of arrangement no?
88GT 3.4 DOHC Turbo
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Post by crzyone »

:dontknow:
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Post by Aaron »

I'm pretty sure it did. You may want to check out, I think it's http://www.jbody.org, and ask them how they dyno. Between the 2.4 and the Ecotec guys, I'm sure someone knows.
88GT 3.4 DOHC Turbo
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Series8217
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Post by Series8217 »

Also with the same/similar ignition systems: Quad-4/TwinCam, Aurora V8, every Volvo made after 1994, all Hondas made since like 2001... actually pretty much everything except pushrod motors these days.
If they can't get a tach signal off that car, they're hillbillies; don't let them touch your car.
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Post by The Dark Side of Will »

They should just be able to probe the signal wire to one of the coil packs directly. You should have 4 signal wires per pack. You'll need to peel the harness a little bit to expose the wires, though.
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Post by Series8217 »

Oops accidentally edited Will's post instead of mine. Fixed!


The signal wires go to the ignition module don't they? The module is integrated with the coil packs.. you can only probe the ECM signal wires to the ignition module. They may not actually give you the right signal frequency, but I don't know exactly how the ECM ignition control works.. so maybe it would be okay.
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Post by The Dark Side of Will »

Nor sure how the circuitry of the coil pack works. It might just be a set of LS1 coils in a plastic housing (IE, no ignition module).

No matter how you cut it, the signal from the ECM to one coil MUST perform a full cycle every two revolutions.
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Post by Mickey_Moose »

...crank sensor...?!??

...or could you not use the wire that feeds the tach???
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Post by befarrer »

Cant they tap into the tach wire going to the dash. You would have to splice a wire into it, as they wont be able to pick up a magnetic signal like the things that clip onto a plug wire. I am unsure which wire it was, that BS3 ECM only has like 4 different wire colors on the harness.

I am not sure if they can use a crank position sensor, his sensors are the digital 3 wire type, not the magnetic ones like most engnes.
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Post by crzyone »

The problem is I have an ignitor on each coil pack, and the ignitor feeds the coils under the plastic cover.

I can get a signal wire, sure. The one going to the tach, but I'm not sure the dyno operator would know what to do with it. Seems like they are used to being able to get a signal from a spark plug wire. They work with mainly domestics, and most of their coils have spark plug wires.

I will see what we can do on Wednesday. Can still get power numbers, and I'm mainly there for the tune anyways.

If I'm bored, maybe I'll rig up some spark plug wires that can go between my coil pack and spark plugs. It would only be used to get a good torque curve on the dyno. kind of a hillbilly setup but these guys know the BS3 inside and out so I will continue to use them for my fiero.
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Post by crzyone »

Image


Best run was 280whp but this is the graph I have.

Had to pull some timing on the top end, was cutting out. My fault probably, I didn't gap the 2 new plugs I put in and we think it was blowing out the spark, oh well.

This is a safe tune that I can beat on until I want to go back. I think a few new mufflers and a set of proper spark plugs and I will hit 300whp.
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Post by Shaun41178(2) »

HAHAHA thats awesome!!

Bone stock too.

RPM based graph?
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Post by crzyone »

Aaron wrote:280rwhp.
Winner.
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Post by crzyone »

Shaun41178(2) wrote:HAHAHA thats awesome!!

Bone stock too.

RPM based graph?
Can't get a timing signal, so no torque numbers. Judging by the graph it looks like a flat torque curve.


Assuming a 15% drivetrain loss I am making 322 at the flywheel. I wish I had my other graph before we pulled timing, but it looked as though I could have hit 300-310 at the wheels if I could have gone to redline... I am impressed, I didn't have my hopes up at all.


Edit to add. My First pull was 276whp, so 2 dead cylinders robbed me of 100whp from the first time I went.
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Post by Shaun41178(2) »

Any idea on your timing? What did you rev it to? No video?

Did they tune for driveability? I mean did they tune for normal around town driving too?

how does it drive around when not at wot?

This is perfect man. you can enjoy the car for the summer.
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Post by crzyone »

Around town drivability is like a cadillac, it has plenty of down low torque and pulls it's self around nicely. Just like the 3.4dohc, around 3500rpm it just screams to redline.

I do have some vids, they are early ones with the cutout in the upper rpms. I will post them up.

That graph I posted went to about 6krpm, maybe 6500.
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Post by crzyone »

Image

Image

Wish I had filmed one of the last runs, oh well...
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Post by whipped »

That's better, and about what I'd expect.

Get some iridium plugs. Best money ever spent. Go a range or two cooler than stock, the stock plugs are HOT for emissions. I've got TR7IX's (2 ranges colder than stock), but <99 N*, I don't know what the 2k+'s are.

You've got per cylinder spark and fuel control right? Do it up! Probably another 20hp in there if you play with it.
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Post by crzyone »

I don't know how you cold use that stuff unless you had EGT's on every cylinder to play with. Only way I could see using the individual cylinder stuff is if you had all your injectors bench tested and balanced flow with the individual cylinder tuning. I don't think it's needed on a stock N*. I would say that is a toy for the big boys on big boost.

Thanks for the tip on plugs, I will have to pick up a set. Not looking forward to dropping my exhaust and cradle to remove the coil pack though...
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Post by befarrer »

wow, good numbers. I think you have the most powerful Fiero in the area by 100WHP. Gonna bring it to edmonton on sunday??
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