New Acquisition: dohc turbo

Shaun41178(2) · Post by **Shaun41178(2)** » Sat Nov 08, 2008 6:17 pm

And she runs. I don't have videos or anything yet but will soon. Battery needs to be charged but other then that its ready to go. Intercooler piping is on, wastegate is all done. I still need to purchase a wideband and a few other gauges but that will come shortly. I don't need them right now to get it running.

I decided that along with correcting the vacuum line routing and fixing the pinched line to the map, I would also check to make sure that the plug wires were in their proper orientation. Well they weren't. Wires 3 and 5 were swapped where they should have actually been. So I corrected that as well. I am sure this was THE cause as to why the car never ran right and had no power. The car would idle fine, but when I would rev it a bit, it always seemed to have a funny feel to it. I am not sure but I am wondering if this would also cause the tach to read corrrectly as well.

I will start it tomorrow and see what happens. It dark now and I don't want to run it in the dark.

Series8217 · Post by **Series8217** » Sun Nov 09, 2008 3:27 am

Awesome. I'll be looking forward to some updates on the goodness.

Take some new pics of the car too once you get it cleaned up!

Shaun41178(2) · Post by **Shaun41178(2)** » Sun Nov 09, 2008 8:52 pm

fired it up today. Got some pics and vids but don't have them converted or uploaded yet.

I regapped the plugs from .060 down to .040. I figured that was too much of a gap for a boosted setup

It revved a lot cleaner today then ever. Of course having the plug wires in their proper orientation helps.

It did idle high for a long time when I unplugged which I think was the tps and it didn't change but when I plugged it back in the idle came down immidiately into the 1k rpm range or so. I didn't drive it at all, just checking for leaks and letting some of the oils and things to burn off the exhaust.

Shaun41178(2) · Post by **Shaun41178(2)** » Mon Nov 10, 2008 6:20 pm

looks like I am having the same prob that bonestock was having. When I start the car, it idles high and stays hi untill I unplug the tps plug, and plug ti back in. Then the idle comes back down to normal. Ideas?

Let it run and idle for about 30 minutes tonight. No drives yet. I gotta get the new pics uploaded.

Series8217 · Post by **Series8217** » Wed Nov 12, 2008 2:23 am

Something wrong with the TPS wiring

. Hook up a scanner and monitor the TPS voltage while you wiggle all the wires.

whipped · Post by **whipped** » Wed Nov 12, 2008 12:06 pm

Try disconnecting the battery for 10 sec.

Series8217 · Post by **Series8217** » Wed Nov 12, 2008 2:12 pm

TPS endpoints are reset any time a TPS error condition is set (like a drop to zero voltage from unplugging it).

Shaun41178(2) · Post by **Shaun41178(2)** » Sat Nov 15, 2008 1:07 pm

I tried removing the moates unit and just tried plugging the factory prom setup in the computer. Car would barely start let alone run so I put the moates unit back in it and it runs fine again. I am baffled by this. With the moates out it would only start if I held the gas to the floor almost like it was dumping way too much fuel. Not sure if the moates unit has a programmed chip init or not.

The chip in the computer is a Sinister chip. I want to take it out and try the new one he sent me, but I am unsure how to get the chip out of the holder. I got the blue cover removed off of it but I didn't want to damage the prom as it didn't look like it wanted to come out as I was trying to use a screwdriver to get up under it to wedge it out.

I also am not making any boost as I took it for a drive today. I am guessing I have a boost leak somewhere so I am going to try and bypass the intercooler to narrow the problem down.

Aaron · Post by **Aaron** » Sat Nov 15, 2008 1:28 pm

I doubt your boost problem is related to the intake. When I first put mine together, I wasn't making boost either, and it was because the car was running rich. I wouldn't have known without my WB hooked up, but luckily I had it hooked up, and watched that as I went WOT at a sufficient RPM, it would peg rich, and the car wouldn't build boost. I got the tune sorted out enough, and it made all the difference in the world. So I'd get the WB hooked up first.

You have to have a pretty big hole in your intake tract to not get any boost. If you can visibly see the pipe, and there aren't any missing silicone connectors, it's good enough.

The chips are held in with tabs on each side. Just push the tabs on either side of the chip down, and it will push the chip up and release it. It's easy, takes seconds. To put it back in, make sure the tabs are pushed out, and just push the chip down. The tabs will pivot in, holding it down.

The Dark Side of Will · Sat Nov 15, 2008 1:44 pm

Shaun41178(2) wrote:I tried removing the moates unit and just tried plugging the factory prom setup in the computer. Car would barely start let alone run so I put the moates unit back in it and it runs fine again. I am baffled by this. With the moates out it would only start if I held the gas to the floor almost like it was dumping way too much fuel. Not sure if the moates unit has a programmed chip init or not.

Maybe the chip isn't programmed for the injectors that are currently on the engine. Reviewing K0hburn's build thread might give you some insight into the chronology... maybe he got the Sinister chip first, then changed the injectors and got the Moates setup.

Aaron wrote:The chips are held in with tabs on each side. Just push the tabs on either side of the chip down, and it will push the chip up and release it. It's easy, takes seconds. To put it back in, make sure the tabs are pushed out, and just push the chip down. The tabs will pivot in, holding it down.

He doesn't mean how to get the carrier out of the ECM. He means how to get the chip out of the carrier.

Forever-Fiero · Post by **Forever-Fiero** » Sat Nov 15, 2008 2:03 pm

Shaun41178(2) wrote:the chip in the computer is a Sinister chip. I want to take it out and try the new one he sent me, but I am unsure how to get the chip out of the holder. I got the blue cover removed off of it but I didn't want to damage the prom as it didn't look like it wanted to come out as I was trying to use a screwdriver to get up under it to wedge it out.

If your E-Prom's not socketed then there's a good chance your going to trash you E-Prom and/or brake the chip trying to take it out like that. Im guessing that the new chip is not in a E-prom. Your going to have to un-sorter the chip and re sorter the new one in. I suggest you get a socket from a computer parts store and socket it now. this will make changing chips much quicker.

If your just trying to pull the prom then Aaron has the answer.

Shaun41178(2) · Post by **Shaun41178(2)** » Sat Nov 15, 2008 3:02 pm

I bypassed the intercooler and it now builds boost and reaches about 10 psi according to this craptacular gauge. It does build it slowly however but with the tach not reading coreectly its hard to tell at just what rpm I am at when its building boost and then reaching full boost.

Yea the wideband isn't on it yet so not sure where thats at.

The chip in the socket appears to be replaced already as there is a sticker on it that Ryan at sinister puts on. So it appears the chip as been removed once. I should probably take pics of what I am talking about. It just doesn't want to come out easily and I don't want to break the socket trying to remove it.

Series8217 · Post by **Series8217** » Sat Nov 15, 2008 3:26 pm

Ryan removes the stock chip from the memcal and solders an EEPROM in its place. To burn a new one you have to use the memcal adapter that Moates sells.

fieromadman · Post by **fieromadman** » Sat Nov 15, 2008 5:35 pm

I think this would work in your situation and make your chip removal easier. http://www.moates.net/product_info.php? ... ucts_id=32

I had that for my 94-95 ECU and it worked great!

Series8217 · Post by **Series8217** » Sat Nov 15, 2008 9:09 pm

Those work. Just make sure you get the low-profile ZIF.. otherwise the ECM cover will not fit very well over the PROM.

Shaun41178(2) · Post by **Shaun41178(2)** » Sun Nov 16, 2008 12:40 am

fieromadman wrote:I think this would work in your situation and make your chip removal easier. http://www.moates.net/product_info.php? ... ucts_id=32

I had that for my 94-95 ECU and it worked great!

Thats what is in it now.

There is that with some sort of chip plugged into that, and then the chip burned by Ryan is connected to the other end of it. I am pretty sure I posted a pic of this already here somewhere.

Forever-Fiero · Post by **Forever-Fiero** » Sun Nov 16, 2008 1:34 am

fieromadman wrote:I think this would work in your situation and make your chip removal easier. http://www.moates.net/product_info.php? ... ucts_id=32

I had that for my 94-95 ECU and it worked great!

$35.50 or $2.92?
http://www.kvconnection.com/ProductDeta ... =06-101-F4

And there's no clearance issues.

Series8217 · Post by **Series8217** » Sun Nov 16, 2008 4:34 am

Forever-Fiero wrote:
fieromadman wrote:I think this would work in your situation and make your chip removal easier. http://www.moates.net/product_info.php? ... ucts_id=32

I had that for my 94-95 ECU and it worked great!

$35.50 or $2.92?
http://www.kvconnection.com/ProductDeta ... =06-101-F4

And there's no clearance issues.

Not the same thing.

The Moates adapter allows you to bypass the Memcal's PROM with whatever chip you want, and retain the connection the knock sensor filter/amplification circuit and netres (limp-home resistors).
A socket might fit on the memcal itself, but trying to use a ZIF on it doesn't work; it interferes with the knock sensor circuit. The Moates adapter cures the clearance problem and lets you use a proper ZIF.

Shaun41178(2) · Post by **Shaun41178(2)** » Sun Nov 16, 2008 11:13 am

So steve what you are saying is that if I replaces the chip thats on the moates adapter itself with ryans chip,it overrides the chip thats on the the factory prom housing even if thats an aftermarket one?

whipped · Post by **whipped** » Sun Nov 16, 2008 11:33 am

Whatever you put on the adapter circuit board is what the ECM uses....