BMW advice

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The Dark Side of Will
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Re: BMW advice

Post by The Dark Side of Will »

Test drive ok?

Notepad for info from BimmerForums:
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh ... ?t=1649881
AxelJohann;21938228 wrote:Finally! 255/35R18 in the rear on the 11" rim and 225/40R18 in the front on 9,5" rim. And everything fit's perfectly, no rub or nothing. :D

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AxelJohann;21940052 wrote:The offset in the front is ET 5 and in the back it is ET 16( the rims are ET 21 but i have 6mm spacers so the rims clear the trailing arms.) And the lowering is 60mm in the front with supersport shocks and 20mm in the rear with kW shocks, but i need to lower it a bit more in the back. :) But the car really rides well!


Yeah the bodywork is not that good but i have a full ///M5 kit wich is beeing prepared for painting and that black bonnet is on the car because i had the narrow front end before but i like the V8 look better.


Here is a crappy photoshop of how the car will end up looking in the future :D

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18 x 11 - 16 offset rear
18 x 9.5 -5 offset front

Previously heard of:
18 x 10.5 - 20 rear
18 x 9.5 - 7 front
The Dark Side of Will
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Re: BMW advice

Post by The Dark Side of Will »

So I've done exactly jack with the suspension. With finishing up a Masters degree, stepping up to put together the pre-ship review package on short notice when the program Flight Assurance manager was in a motorcycle accident (he's ok, but was out of work for about a month), changing units in the Navy Reserve and building a top shelf exhaust system for my Cadillac Northstar powered Fiero, I haven't had time to give Das Bimmah the love it deserves.

I wore out the tires on the 18's. I still have the wheels, but since I'd been putting a lot of miles on the car, I got 90K mile warranted Michelins for the 15's. I even stepped back from the 225's it had when I bought it to 205/65's. The result is almost 23 mpg at 80 mph. Not sure if that's good for an M30 or not. Theoretically I could push that to a little over 25 by swapping from a 3.46 to a 2.81 rear.

When I put the 15's back on, the shimmy under braking problem went away. It has recently reappeared, so I'll actually have to do something about it soon.

I did run across a post in which someone had used E53 X5 TAB's in the front of his E32. He posted pics and they looked like they'd be stiffer than the E34 M5 bushings. I may do that...

I definitely will go to spherical bearing control arm bushings in the front. I found these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/320661384880
The price is way too high in my book, but since BMW themselves used hard pivots in the control arms of their top shelf luxury coupe, I feel better about doing it in my lowly 5 series.

In other news, my heater core sprung a leak.
I just got finished replacing it.
Pics:

IHKR III exposed:
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IHKR III torn apart down to the evaporator, with heater core removed:
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Side shot of how deep into the dash you have to go to get to the above shot:
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New unit in box... pretty impressively engineered shipping container:
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New heater core reinstalled. I kept the original pipes, but cleaned the ends and swapped in the o-rings that came on the pipes with the new heater core:
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The culprit:
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All the interior components looked like someone had at some point put a sealed 2 litre bottle of Coke in a paint mixer, then promptly opened it inside the car and put it down in front of the shifter to depressurize. EVERYthing had some sticky mess on it. I cleaned all that up. While the center console was out, I ran by my buddy's house and used his carpet cleaner to shampoo the gunk out of the carpet under the center console. I know no one will see it, but it makes me feel better.

I'd been having problems with intermittency in my left front tweeter, so I addressed some wiring problems with the radio. Likely won't help the speaker problem, but that also made me feel better.

The radio harness as it was:
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A previous installer added a pioneer 6 disk changer in the trunk. To add the wiring, he had cut the insulation ONLY (not the wires) pulled it back both directions from the cut, soldered additional wires to the exposed copper and taped up the splices. Interesting way of making a side splice... BUT a later installer had come through, cut the wires that the first installer had carefully spliced and taped up the cut wires. He also left the changer and harness in place. Wow.
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My work--proper crimp splices and shrink tube:
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In addition, the 20 year old BMW harness tape was peeling off the harnesses, so I had to redress several of the bundles with small zip ties. That's boring so I didn't take any pictures.
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Series8217
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Re: BMW advice

Post by Series8217 »

The Dark Side of Will wrote:Test drive ok?
Yeah, the E36 was perfect except the shocks and struts were overdue for replacement. I checked all the problem spots and the car was otherwise perfect. It was the first E36 we checked out and so we weren't sure about it.. Spent too much time deciding and the car sold to another buyer an hour later. We definitely should have brought it home. I'm afraid it's going to be hard finding another example that nice around the same price, but we'll keep looking.

Narrowed down the search to the following:
* Mazda Miata (NA or NB)
* E36 325i/328i
* Subaru Impreza (GC)
* Subaru Outback (BH)

Probably not getting an E34 unless we happen across one that's really nice. We haven't been able to locate one with a 5-speed that's in good shape. I'll keep an eye out though.
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crzyone
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Re: BMW advice

Post by crzyone »

I vote GC8

This
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Plus this
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I've loved the GC8 since Initial D. They are really hard to find here in Canada. Maybe when the JDM ones become available I will pick one up for a winter driver.

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Series8217
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Re: BMW advice

Post by Series8217 »

crzyone wrote:I vote GC8
We can't buy GC8's; we just have the 1.8L (base model, usually FWD), 2.2L, and later the 2.5RS (all are naturally aspirated).

A swapped Impreza (i.e. GC8 clone) would far exceed the $5k total budget (which includes maintenance for a year). Just finding 1st-gen Imprezas here is tough; they're in high demand.
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Re: BMW advice

Post by crzyone »

I like the 2.5RS, and the fact you can swap in a later STI drivetrain is awesome.

Here is a nice example, but it would have to be blue.
http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.jsp?c ... dard=false
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Series8217
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Re: BMW advice

Post by Series8217 »

Can an E34 "ix" be built in North America without using foreign parts?
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Aaron
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Re: BMW advice

Post by Aaron »

I didn't know they ever made an E34 in AWD, news to me. I would guess that a E46 drivetrain would swap in without too much hassle, but at the end of the day, why not stick with the E46?
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Re: BMW advice

Post by The Dark Side of Will »

There are a few E34 525iX's in Canada. I assume they can be imported into the US, but I'm not familiar with the particulars.
The E34 AWD body is different from the E34 RWD in ways similar to the ways in which the E30 AWD is different from the E30 RWD (floor pan, front frame rails and strut towers). The E34 iX also has a completely different front subframe. The front suspension is similar to the E30 AWD front suspension, but I don't *think* any parts interchange.

The E30 uses a ~35/65 torque split and VC to control wheel spin.
The E34 uses a ~35/65 torque split, but has a computer controlled clutch to deal with wheel spin.

The E46 driveline won't work in the E34 or E30. The E46 front axle is 3-4 inches further forward relative to the bellhousing mounting face than it is in the E30, E34 and E53.

With the E46 front axle as far forward as it is, an AWD LSx swapped E46 using TBSS front drive hardware does sound inviting.
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Series8217
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Re: BMW advice

Post by Series8217 »

Yeah, this is for a different project.. (apocalypse wagon replacement; getting bored with the Subie)
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Re: BMW advice

Post by The Dark Side of Will »

There have been a few imported from Europe to Canada... I've seen 3, maybe 4 come up in the couple of years I've been on BMW forums. Keep your eyes open and be ready to act quickly.
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Re: BMW advice

Post by The Dark Side of Will »

Series8217 wrote:Can an E34 "ix" be built in North America without using foreign parts?
http://vancouver.en.craigslist.ca/rds/c ... 93865.html
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Re: BMW advice

Post by Series8217 »

Too rare for what I would do with it..
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Re: BMW advice

Post by The Dark Side of Will »

Going to go Mad Max with it?

I'd have no problems at all swapping a BMW V8 into that car with the X5 AWD front drive to make a 540iX
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Re: BMW advice

Post by Series8217 »

The Dark Side of Will wrote: I'd have no problems at all swapping a BMW V8 into that car with the X5 AWD front drive to make a 540iX
I'm more concerned about availability of parts when I break stuff.
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Re: BMW advice

Post by The Dark Side of Will »

Driveline parts are not hard to find on www.ebay.de
Have to learn some German and find a seller who will ship across the pond, though.

Because of the pinion centerline differences, a V8 swap would require converting the T-case front output to fixed yoke and building a U-jointed driveshaft.

This would actually give the same diff ratio problems as my E30 swap... ratios tall enough to use with the V8 are at best difficult to find for the front end. The car shipped with 3.38's. That's not so great with the 5 speed manual that had a direct top gear. The automatics have OD top gears, but I haven't looked into how to build a V8 automatic driveline for the car. A V8 stick driveline isn't hard to put together.
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Re: BMW advice

Post by The Dark Side of Will »

I just replaced the waterpump in my car last night. At 257K miles, I guess it's had a good run. The old one was a metal impeller unit, so it's been replaced before. Also, there was some extra RTV that made me think someone's had the front cover off this engine before.

It was weeping coolant from the shaft seal and the bearings were just a little bit loose. The low coolant light was very helpful.

Overall the job was not bad. I had replaced the radiator drain plug when I replaced the thermostat a few months ago, so that worked. It has a block drain, however that drain is in a location such that the coolant comes out right onto the exhaust pipe, then splashes around the subframe, etc, so it's impossible to catch more than about half of it unless your drain pan is the size of a swimming pool.

Engine is much quieter now.
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Re: BMW advice

Post by Aaron »

I bought my car after the previous owned sold it to a tow company who was going to salvage it because the water pump went bad after 248,000 miles (It was the original). It went bad, and they just let it go until the bearings were so worn that the fan broke into the radiator, fucking that up too. The job wasn't bad, the hardest part was getting the damn fan on/off.

I replaced the clutch fan with a junk yard one, put a new water pump in, and did the T-stat.
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Re: BMW advice

Post by The Dark Side of Will »

Your M20 car or your M50 car?
I still think you should swap the M50 powertrain into the M20 chassis.

Isn't the M20 waterpump turned by the timing belt?

The M30 waterpump was cheap and replacing it was about a 3 hour job taking my sweet time.
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Re: BMW advice

Post by Aaron »

I sold my m20 car a while back, my current e34 is an m50. I like it much better and the water pump was pretty easy, except for the fan.

I know the silicone isn't gm's fault but it made an easy job a lot harder. I've also never had a problem with the standard paper gasket leaking. And I bought a $13 water pump, that came with a gasket, there's no way it was a high quality gasket.

Having done a water pump in a 3.4 fiero, I can say that it was slightly more difficult than in the w body but not much.
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