Real Fiero Tech

On my coil pack, the cyl numbers are quite conveniently labelled, but if they were to be installed correctly, it would mean my firing order is out--because I'd be following the wrong labels.

I'm reaching here; his problem sounds to me more like an ignition timing issue (popping out intake) than anything else. If his compression was consistant across both banks, it suggests that this cam timing can't be that far out. :shrug

Admit it: At this point, anything is possible!


Thought:

The sensor wire you have running from your crank-trigger to your coil pack... You aren't by any chance running it along anywhere near the plug-wires, are you? Like, within about 3" ?

Mach10 wrote:On my coil pack, the cyl numbers are quite conveniently labelled, but if they were to be installed correctly, it would mean my firing order is out--because I'd be following the wrong labels.

They are labelled on mine too, but they are just for reference. You can put that tower in any of the other positions, and so long as the plug wires are still correct, it wouldn't make a difference. Or so I think...

Right. But what I'm saying is that if your reference is out (say you swapped both ends), when you reconnect the wires, they will be wrong (post marked #1 won't be #1 anymore).

Ditto if he relocated the coil packs, replaced it with an OEM replacement that DOES NOT have markings, flipped it upside down, and wired left-to-right.

Just so it doesn't get lost... I repeat:

Is your crank trigger sensor wiring running anywhere near the spark plug wires?

Ok we're on the same page then.

Mach10 wrote:Is your crank trigger sensor wiring running anywhere near the spark plug wires?

To be honest, i dont know. I didnt do the wiring harness, i just wrapped it and covered it then put it in the car... The only wire within 3" of the plug wires are the wires connecting to the ICM, and there are only close because they connect there. The actual wires themselves arent close to anything...

coils are like this... (looking down from the top as they are mounted on the factory battery box)

There's a 2-wire harness that comes DIRECTLY off the coil pack, and goes straight into a sensor on the side of the the block.

Find those wires, and DOUBLE CHECK that they are NOT running parallel (beside) and spark plug wires within 3" or so. If they come closer, make sure that it's to cross at 90º

Inductive noise FTL!


Retime the motor according to Aaron's instructions there, and try again...

So, you gonna work on it, or are ya just going to let us hang? :salute:

im gonna work on it... eventualy...

I had to setup a carnival today and got burnt to hell so it prolly wont be until late this week or this weekend. Plus i have been sick for the last week or so (Ulcers, G.I.R.D, something i cant remember...it sucks)

*glances at note*

In future, if you're going to forge a sick note, don't sign it with your OWN signature.

:salute:

I was thinking i would have it done tonight and i would have except me pulley puller stripped out on me. Gotta pic up a new one in the mornin and then finish gettin it timed and see if it will run. Found a couple other things i can fix while it is torn apart so even if it does run it wont be driveable for another couple days...

94-95 cogs FTW.

Aaron wrote:94-95 cogs FTW.

That would be nice... I have 3 sets of 91-93 heads/cogs.
One set i bought and was told they are 94-95 but they arent... the other set doesnt have any lifters and the final set is on the engine.

slow'n'steady wrote:4. turn the crankshaft one half rotation so that #4 is TDC

uhm... when cylinder #1 is TDC cylinder #4 is also TDC... With #1 cylinder at TDC, if i turn the crank 180* #4 is bottomed out (opposite of TDC) Or am i messed up on the cylinder numbers?

#1 is below the MAP sensor and #4 is on the other bank in the center...?

You're right on the cylinder numbers. It shouldn't matter where ANY of the other cylinders are at. The only one you need know is #1. Forget all of the other 5, leave their spark plug in.

i am confusin myself here...
I got #1 cylinder to TDC and installed the lock rings on that side, now i need to do the other bank.

If i turn the crank so that the balancer makes one full rotaion, thats puts #4 at TDC with the 135 bank flats down. Is that right? I want to make sure before i reinstall those lock rings on the 246 bank...

Aaron wrote:

slow'n'steady wrote: 4. turn the crankshaft one full rotation so that #4 is TDC

Negative. Once you turn the motor over a full rotation, Cyl #1 should again be at TDC, but the back bank of cams should be flat down (Because cams turn at 1/2 of the crank), whereas the front cams will be flats up. Then lock the fronts, and you're good to go.

Get #1 to TDC, and get the rear bank cams flats up (1-3-5). Then turn the engine over one full CRANK rotation. #1 will AGAIN be at TDC, but the 1-3-5 flats will be down since they turn at 1/2 speed of the crank. Now, with #1 at TDC and the 1-3-5 flats down, the 2-4-6 flats should be up now.

Don't worry about cylinder #4. It doesn't matter where it's at. All we are worried about is #1. If you have #1 at TDC, and the 1-3-5 cam flats up, then tighten those. Now for the other bank, turn the engine over one full crank rotation, so #1 will drop down, then come back up. Stop when it gets to TDC. The 1-3-5 flats will be down. Now turn the 2-4-6 flats until they are up, and lock them into place flats up.

Again, don't worry about where #4 is at. Leave the screwdriver in cyl #1.

IT RUNS(ish)

gotta run to the parts store right quick... hopefuly can get some videos up later so you can help me figure out the idle/throttle response situation...

FUCK ME!!!
that didnt last long... cant get the fucker to start again.. well, it will start for like 2-3 seconds but that is it...

VATS issue?

I think we ruled that out once already, cant remember for sure... All i can say is that it is 100% FOR SURE timed correctly now!