Real Fiero Tech

It isn't a VATS issue. The 1991-1993 ECUs didn't have VATS, nor do you have to anything like that as far as anti-theft goes in the chip.

The 94-95 did have VATS in some of the PCMs, however every wiring instruction I've seen to get it into the Fiero hasn't mentioned anything about it. Ryan at GMTuners had a spot for it on his info sheet, but his info sheet is generic for any car/PMC. I just cut the wire at the ECU plug. I'll worry about it when it doesn't start, and won't start after I fix the other things I inevitably fucked up in the harness.

No, you can't cut the wire.... Aaron you know better. The ECM has to have input at the right frequency. The easiest way around this is turning off the VATS on the prom. Why would that be the problem if you could crank it before though.

I hope you're not dealing with VATS because if you are you are running a 94-95 pcm. If that's true, then you will need the 94-95 cams with bip for the cam sensor, plus a cam sensor and both cranks hooked up.

Please varify which PCM you are running (ECM #).

Which numbers do you need? there are like 4 sets of numbers/letters and i have 3 ECMs...

Also i dont knwo what is up with this but it will not let me check my codes anymore... I actualy bought the little "tool" and book with all the codes. I used it a couple times and it worked fine. I tried to read the codes today and it wont do its thing... ( i checked the codes before i re-timed it and it worked fine... I know the timing doesnt have anything to do with that so...)

Is what it does now better than what it did before you retimed it?

OH YEAH, everything is much better now! still wont run but it sounds MUCH better, no backfires, its starts up without having to touch the gas pedal etc...

Just wont stay running and now it wont enter diagnostic mode...

Then that's progress, which is a good thing.

here are the ECMs i have (the first one is blurry so i typed the numbers out (it is the one that I have been using)

The first one is the right one.

what are the other two?
I am going to be selling them probably sooner or later so it would be nice to know wht they are. Any idea why it wont enter diagnostic mode anymore?

slow'n'steady wrote:what are the other two?
I am going to be selling them probably sooner or later so it would be nice to know wht they are. Any idea why it wont enter diagnostic mode anymore?

Not sure, and no not at all. Probably a wiring error somewhere, check the pins on the ALDL and make sure they aren't bent or pushed out of the plastic clip.

Just an idea, but try wiggling the C203 while you are starting/running it. Many of us have had problems with the C203 pins not making contact, causing a whole slew of issues (I myself had this problem).

The MEMCAL might not be seated right, or the chip is bad.

Aaron wrote: Just an idea, but try wiggling the C203 while you are starting/running it. Many of us have had problems with the C203 pins not making contact, causing a whole slew of issues (I myself had this problem).

DING DING DING... WE HAVE A WINNER!!!
now how the hell do i fix it?

I would make sure all the wires are fully seated in the connector, and that none of the wires are broken.

I wiggled it and the diagnostic mode started working, then as i was turning it over i wiggled it and it started up and ran i stopped wiggling it and it stopped running. do i need to pull it apart or how do i check all that out?

The Carquest wiring and terminal catalog has tools for removing the metri-pack terminals. From there you can either re-bend them to grip each other again or cut them off and install new terminals.

I wouldn't listen to Shaun, he doesn't know what he's talking about (Try to act surprised).

I bent all of the pins, used terminal cleaner, and overall made them contact better. Didn't do anything. I ended up having to cut the C203 out, and replace it with a better designed connector. I used a 6-pin connector from a spare DOHC fuel injection harness, and then a 4-pin connector for computers for the high current stuff. Been working great ever since.

A-rod's way works if you don't mind the computer connector.

You can also go to the parts store and buy new pins. They're in the Motormite connector/pins catalog; they'll probably have to be ordered. You likely only need the female pins.
All the stock C203 female pins I've seen were bare copper, while the male ones were zinc plated from the factory. The aftermarket female pins are zinc plated. Repinning the connector fixed all of my C203 problems (same problem as you plus fuel pump/ECM power cutting out).

-Steven

well, i dont have any spare connectors laying around and i am strapped for cash at the moment because someone fucked me over so...
Could i remove the pins and just solder all the wires? or something to that effect?

slow'n'steady wrote:well, i dont have any spare connectors laying around and i am strapped for cash at the moment because someone fucked me over so...
Could i remove the pins and just solder all the wires? or something to that effect?

If they are long enough you can, but then removing the wiring harness/ECU is going to be a bitch later on. Go to the junkyard, buy a spare connector with 3" tails ($1 max). Or just take one off of the unused portion of your 2.8/3.4 harness.