crzyone's R32 GTR updates, parts and pics

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crzyone
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Post by crzyone »

Heh, she took it better than I thought she would, but I did have to do some sweet talking lol.

I am driving out to Vancouver on Tuesday to pick it up, should be a nice road trip.
CincinnatiFiero
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Post by CincinnatiFiero »

PICS! Good thing you got a motor, if I didn't get my ride in June, I'd be pissed.
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crzyone
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Post by crzyone »

Well, since I will have the motor out I will start porting the exhaust manifolds, install my new downpipe and decat. Should be much quicker than it was previously, especially if the compression was low this entire time.

Hopefully it is done by June, we'll see.
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crzyone
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Post by crzyone »

Having the motor shipped instead so it will take a bit longer to get here. Couldn't justify the gas, hotel and 2 days to pick it up.
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crzyone
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Post by crzyone »

Confused now.

I was in the garage tonight, was going to pull the head off the motor but I thought I would check the compression again.

A few of the spark plug holes were a bit dirty so I would thread in the tester, pull it out and clean it, put it back in and I did that on all of them until the tester was clean.

I had a bit better charge on the battery and I held the throttle open on all the tests and this is what I got.

#1 125
#2 100
#3 105
#4 90
#5 100
#6 130

Tomorrow I am going to buy a new compression tester before I rip out the motor. I want to double check the numbers on this borrowed tester before I go any furthur.

With these compression numbers and the timing being on, the motor should run. I think I will pull the injectors and have them checked, maybe check the fuel pump and if those are good I might start borrowing various sensors and figure out which one is keeping my motor from running. Could even be coils or the ignitor.

This is getting very confusing.

For the price I bought the second motor at I could probably sell it for double so it was not a bad investment.
CincinnatiFiero
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Post by CincinnatiFiero »

better buy some restore!!! 6 cylinder formula I reckon.

Yeah buy another tester to double check, even if your motors good, why not keep the spare and gradually build her up on the stand.
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crzyone
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Post by crzyone »

It might be an option. Although any money I could make on it could go into go fast goodies.
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Post by CincinnatiFiero »

I suggest an LS1 swap
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Post by befarrer »

CincinnatiFiero wrote:I suggest an LS1 swap
I heard that is teh best motor evah!!!
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Post by CincinnatiFiero »

Its light, versatile, etc etc etc I could go on for pages, but instead I'll copy and paste some super chevy editorials...
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Post by Shaun41178(2) »

CincinnatiFiero wrote:Its light, versatile, etc etc etc I could go on for pages, but instead I'll copy and paste some super chevy editorials...
Just copy and paste anything from Aaron

Hey Levi, even numbers under 100 are low and the motor is on the way out. Nothing should test under 100. The motor is probably bad.

Do a leak down test too if you are unsure of the compression test numbers. Leak down can tell you if its the valves not sealing, or the rings are bad.
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Post by The Dark Side of Will »

Heck, a Northstar with a piss poor hone and ring saturated in oil will read over 200 on a compression check. Something's definitely wrong with the engine. I'd go with gunked up rings, since the numbers are jumping around, but it could be warped valves.
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Post by jelly2m81 »

Ya Levi those numbers are low. I don't know the CR on that engine, but to me, anything under 150psi is worn out.
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crzyone
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Post by crzyone »

Yes, I knew the numbers were low. I bought a second compression tester to verify and every number went up by 10psi. So 100psi is the lowest cylinder. No point in doing a leakdown test.

I will be pulling this motor out and the other one ships out tomorrow.
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crzyone
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Post by crzyone »

Motor has arived, picked it up last Friday. Gasket kit has arrived in the mail today.

I'm off this weekend, I will update with pictures.
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crzyone
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Post by crzyone »

Have not done a whole bunch, splitting my time between the fiero and the GTR.

Here is the new motor, will be reassembling as soon as I find some correct bolts for my engine stand.

Image

I just about had a hernia lifting this head. With the manifolds on it and fully assembled with the cams it's a heavy bitch!

Image

The motor in my GTR has been taken down before. It's very clean and there is newer gasket sealant on the oil pan and valve covers. Will be interesting to see what I find when I take the motor down. Here is the cams exposed, will update with more as I go along.

Image
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Aaron
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Post by Aaron »

Ahhh look at all the baby wannabe bores, they're so cute :thumbleft:


It looks like a pretty well-designed block, very minimalistic. Wish it was aluminum. The exhaust manifolds also look pretty good, with some porting to the outlet of course. Better than most at any rate!
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Gooch wrote:Way to go douche. You are like a one-man, fiero-destroying machine.
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crzyone
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Post by crzyone »

not much for progress yet. I found some bolts that are long enough to work with my engine stand. Small town, hard to find long metris bolts.

Here is the bottom of the engine, you can see how the front diff and oil pan are integrated. Thought some of you would like to see it, definitly interesting.

Image

Image

Took a shot of the open side, you can see it is fairly heavily built. Designed to take 50% of the cars torque.

Image


I bead blasted all my engine parts, most are now at the powder coaters and should be done tomorrow, there are only a few parts here that I will paint black. It's nice having a large bead blasting cabinet at work. I spent a few hours on a night shift cleaning up all my engine parts. :thumbleft:

Image

I am powdercoating the cam covers, timing cover, coil cover and intake manifold bright yellow. I know it sounds wierd but blue and yellow go well together. It's either going to look great or horrible lol. We'll see when I get everything back and assembled. I did a lot of searching and nobody has a yellow RB26, so it should be interesting.
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Series8217
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Post by Series8217 »

Maybe a stupid question, but is the front diff lubricated by engine oil?
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crzyone
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Post by crzyone »

Nope, gear oil. They are separate but share the oil pan for strength.

You can see the oil fill and drain points on the diff cover.
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