88 cradle in pre 88 car

[The Dark Side of Will]

ok. I guess I'm just remembering wrong, then.

[loudias]

I have a right adapter for sale in a box never opened...
I got it because he sent me 2 lefts back in July of '03...by the time I got this one in the mail, my mechanic rewelded one of the others flipped over and we got the job done...

[MNFatz]

You're also going to need a couple of 22 inch brake lines for the back if you use the stock 84-7 lines.

I bought a couple of 22 inch -3AN braided teflon lines on ebay. One side with a straight end, the other with a 90 degree bend.

Summit Racing sells 10MM banjo to -3AN ends that fit the ends of the lines.

[Jinxmutt]

I found DOT lines on summit but they only come 21 or 24". Which do you think would be a better length??
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetai ... toview=sku

[MNFatz]

Definitely the 24s.

Here's my 22s with the 90s on them. The suspension is fully extended--don't let the jackstand underneath the knuckle fool you. I think putting the lines behind the struts will work out a little better. You should be able to pull that off with the 24s.

Those DOT brake lines are misleading. The -AN banjo adapter you put on the end makes them technically not DOT legal again. I paid $15 a side for these:

http://stores.ebay.com/JDA-Enterprises



I had to spend another $7.00 a side for the Banjo adapters from summit. They're Earl's 10mm banjo to -3AN.

[Jinxmutt]

Those DOT brake lines are misleading. The -AN banjo adapter you put on the end makes them technically not DOT legal again.

Says they come with the Banjo already attached:

"Hose End 1: 10mm banjo 0.375 in.
Hose End 2: -3 AN female
Assembled: Yes
Length (in): 24.000 in.
Brake Line Outer Material: Braided stainless steel
Quantity: Sold individually.
Notes: 10mm Banjo on one end, -3AN female straight on other end. Meets D.O.T. MVSS-106 requirements."

[MNFatz]

That's the stuff.

I would have gone that route if I would have known about them.

Plug and play!

[Jinxmutt]

Got the brake lines, had to order from Jegs cause Summit was backordered.

In anycase, what are you running for alignment settings now?
I'm reading the front can stay as it would, but set the rear with stock toe in, but -1.0 to -1.5 camber.

[MNFatz]

I was hoping to hear alignment settings from you.

Can someone post 'ball park' figures? Maybe something with reference points from the cradle to the knuckle when the knuckle is X inches from the top of the strut tower? I have no idea how to set this up.

[Jinxmutt]

You have any shots of the driver side ebrake / cradle area? I bought all new cables from FS, but can't I figure how to hook them up.

cable to caliper is straight forward, its all the connectivity that i'm not certain on.

[MNFatz]

Here's a good pic. Sorry I didn't post it earlier; I didn't see your post until late last night.




These are held coilovers. Can someone tell me about where the spring should be on the sleeve? I've got 1 inch lowering springs in front.

[Shaun41178(2)]

you will need to get the car ont he gruond with the wheel and tire on before you know where the spring should be on the sleeve. Its adjustable fo course but no way to tell by looking at it like that.

[Jinxmutt]

I left my setscrew loose and dropped it to the ground. I set it so the rear was about 1" higher than the front which looks cool, and even if it settles a bit, I can't imagine it would be an inch worth. As long as the back isn't lower than the front, I'm happy. I counted the threads on the sleeve and made sure both were even to get a decent start point. I don't konw if the weight of things wil require me to tweak one or the other down the rd, but we'll see.

thanks for that picture. Its exactly what I was looking for. I notice your springs sit very nicely for the ebrake, my springs on both sides bow inward, as if the spring is too long. Sure has a lot of tension though...

[Atilla the Fun]

There are now needle bearings available that permit adjusting the height without having to unload the suspension. I expect to be getting a pair.