High Feature V6 Swap

[draven]

I'm routing the single turbo through a Y pipe and then into the new intercooler manifolds. Not ideal I know and once again, hindsight being 2020, I would have pulled the turbo setup off of a CTSV or ATSV.

I will be shortening and welding the slip fit connector but still will have to relief the muffler a lesser amount.

Oh I've got some bracing to do of both the collector and the downpipe to the transmission. I'm not 100% married to the BORLA crossflow.... but small crossflow's are rare, especially with a 3.5" inlet.. I could do a custom spintech but not keen on they way they sound and HFV6's sound no where near as nice as the 60degV6s. If you guys have any other muffler ideas in the space I have let me know..

[draven]

Quick update and discovery...

Getting all hoses, clutchlines (auto to manual conversion), turbo oiling and cooling, basic wiring, E85 fuel lines, etc.. in place and installed before final install and turn over...

What I wasn't prepared for was that the stock turbo(s), td04's, have vacuum operated actuators for the wastegates and not boost referenced controlled. This would not be easily worked around with a standard wastegate actuator given the behavior, manner, and monitoring the OEM ECU does with the built in vacuum pump in the head, vacuum reservoir, and PWM solenoids to control boost.

Short of mounting and utilizing an LF3/LF4 OEM vacuum operated wastegate does anyone know of any other similar OEM or aftermarket types of wastegates out there outside of the OEM BMW N54 and VW VNT controlling wastegates?

[Shaun41178(2)]

Can you find a boost referenced actuator and adapt it?

[pmbrunelle]

Turbosmart has dual-port wastegate actuators for EFR turbos.

Depending on which port(s) you use, maybe it can do what you need?

If you need the spring to push the rod outwards (versus in), then you can remove the stock spring, and install your own spring on the actuator rod?

[The Dark Side of Will]

As long as the sign of the PWM signal vs change in MAP is correct, why would the ECM care?

Also, you could use an electric vacuum pump

[Honest Don]

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.ph ... bPPHIgJ33I

Maybe one of these?

[draven]

Still plugging away at this... getting lots of little things done here and there but an hour here and a half hour here doesn't feel like it moving fast enough..... i'm sure many of you can relate.

1.) No pics yet but going with a stock XTS-V vacuum operated boost control actuator and "CAD"ing out mounts for it.

2.) Got everything hooked up outside the car, short of fuel, using the spaghetti monster technique, turned the key and whiiiiiiiiz!! Shit... never had the flywheel/pp balanced, torque plate cut and installed



3.) Got the fw/c/pp trio balanced by a local machine shop, as well as the XTS-V flexplate machined into a torque plate, and along with NoMad installed everything. ARP flywheel bolts are for a Ford Cosworth which fit perfectly with the additional 3mm torque plate. The clutch is the Spec Stage 3+ and curious to see how she drives and if all the Spec hubub about load holding and drivability really is true.

Also had the heater return port capped and tig'd shut on the thermostat housing. Pulled the other two ports and NPT tapped them.








4.) Used my old 86GT pedal box to restore the clutch pedal hardware and fabricate a bracket for the ATS-V clutch position sensor. All installed cleaned up, Dickman bushings, and all ready to go. There's a special routine supported by HPTuners for the E96 ECU that enables a learning session to store the clutch pedal movement range, etc... Unlike the Fiero which has a hard switch to enable the starter circuit, this CPP sensor tells the the ECU to enable a relay to allow the starter to energize.



5.) While pulling the steering column for a manual column, I pulled the intermediate coupler and found that this fiero was 'going' to get a power steering setup as it came with a rag-joint. Found a rag joint eleminator kit used on Camaro's and Firebirds. Bolts right up... easy peasy...



6.) Pic of the TapoutTuning higher tension springs and MACE fuel cam through TapoutTuning. 30% more fuel out of the mechanical fuel pump and no valve float up to 7500rpm. The stock LF3/LF4 have a 6500rpm redline and see valve float around 6000rpm at stock upper end OEM boost levels ~17-19psi based on favorable conditions. The plan is to pull the engine up to 7000rpm to make a little better use of the headroom alotted by the 8374EFR but still at OEM boost levels.



7.) NoMad and I also rebuilt our shifters with the Rodney Dickman kit, a quick sand, degrease, and slop of POR15 ... mine with the FieroGuru F40 reverse lockout spring.





Thanks to NoMad mentioning it to me and to get my butt moving on the swap I decided I'm going to go for the Optima Batteries Ultimate Street Car Challenge... "might" make the July Atlanta event but definitely the 2022 event.

Having said that, I took a deep look at the rules and what class I'll be competing. There are several events, design and engineering, autocross, road course, go-turn-chicane-stop, and 100mile road rally over street roads with judges. The aero rules a pretty strict. No rules on splitters, probably going to copy much of what Steven did on his however if needed, however no rear wings allowed over 6" above body.... gurney flaps / wicker bills allowed but must still fit within the height limitation. Thinking about going with the IMSA whale tail on a second decklid for the competition as it measures out theoretically within the rules limitations and does provide downforce and "clean" up the air behind the car and on the decklid at speed.

This is still speculative and not going to spend any time on it until I get to the shakedown phase but I'm still looking for ways to vent heat effectively out of the engine bay "without" losing the trunk. I have enhanced Aus Fiero scoops on the sides of the car so air in "shouldn't" be a problem unless there is an unknown aerodynamic situation waiting on me there...

I Eyeballed the chrysler lebaron vent, or similar, PPG used toward the rear of the lid, those moderately hideous louvers people have glassed in over the engine... Reversed NACA ducts will have no functionality back there due to the flying butresses..... maybe on the rear hips from the engine bay through the trunk?

Fans under Mr2 MkII type louvers?

Any other ideas?

Outside of the Optima challenge it will see occasional track time and 400-600hp will probably need some form of additional heat dissipation out of the bay...

[ericjon262]

Maybe IMSA style 1/4 panel ducts to bring fresh air into the engine bay from down low, allowing air to exhaust through the decklid vents? I'm only familiar with NACA ducts, so I can't provide input to your other ideas.

[draven]

I have Aus Fiero 1/4 panel scoops modified and installed to stick out into the airstream a bit more to get air into the bay so air "in" isn't a problem... it's getting the air 'out' from around a transverse engine, and keeping the trunk, and doing so efficiently with regards to aerodynamic flow around the mess that is the rear of the fiero...

Maybe IMSA style 1/4 panel ducts to bring fresh air into the engine bay from down low, allowing air to exhaust through the decklid vents? I'm only familiar with NACA ducts, so I can't provide input to your other ideas.

I just did some research about cars that use naca ducts and the lotus exige/evora use them on the under body pan to pull air up, into, and through the engine bay.... hmmmmm This will be a good problem to have as that means the car is up and running..

[ericjon262]

any updates for us?

[draven]

Not too much... life went to hell in a hand basket in the last couple of months, NoMad can vouch for that and has been a great friend.

I did obtain a Griffin Radiator, same as Steven Snyder's but the 600hp version instead so a little thicker. 2.68". I then purchased an OE GM C7 Supercharged radiator shroud and fan, has a 600watt SPAL and hinged overflow doors, and have been cutting and fitting it to the Griffin.

[ericjon262]

Not too much... life went to hell in a hand basket in the last couple of months, NoMad can vouch for that and has been a great friend.

I did obtain a Griffin Radiator, same as Steven Snyder's but the 600hp version instead so a little thicker. 2.68". I then purchased an OE GM C7 Supercharged radiator shroud and fan, has a 600watt SPAL and hinged overflow doors, and have been cutting and fitting it to the Griffin.

no need to have someone vouch, shit happens, I hope things iron out alright for you.

[The Dark Side of Will]

Not too much... life went to hell in a hand basket in the last couple of months, NoMad can vouch for that and has been a great friend.

I did obtain a Griffin Radiator, same as Steven Snyder's but the 600hp version instead so a little thicker. 2.68". I then purchased an OE GM C7 Supercharged radiator shroud and fan, has a 600watt SPAL and hinged overflow doors, and have been cutting and fitting it to the Griffin.

We're glad you're still at it. Unfortunately life gets in the way of cars sometimes.

[draven]

The GM/SPAL shroud is only 206$ from RockAuto..

Some Griffin/SPAL eye candy...

Theoretically the fan, being PWM, can be controlled via the E96 ATS-V ECU which is the same as the C7 Supercharged ECU.

Initial cuts to fit Shroud to radiator. Note the top of the radiator is non shrouded just like the C7 to utilize the hood extractor/vent. I have an V8Archie hood vent installed.



Note the junkyard connector attached to the fan.. the standard C7 fan connector is about half the gauge size on the wires for the C7 supercharged. Had to track down the manufacturer of the connector, as it's not available from GM yet without buying full harness, and obtained a pack of 5 so that I can get the correct gauge wiring to the fan and keep the OE connectors.










After cutting up Lowe's ABS piping and using JB Plasti-Weld to shape the shroud to the Griffin







Here are the Gland Nut adapters I obtained from Australia and then had ~1mm machined off the inside to fit the fiero strut housings to install a koni dual adjustable strut insert

[ericjon262]

good job with the fan shroud! I would recommend, if there's room, remove the drain petcock and install a nipple on the radiator so you can reach the valve. or, remove the valve and install a flush plug that removes with an hex key.

[The Dark Side of Will]

The GM/SPAL shroud is only 206$ from RockAuto..

Some Griffin/SPAL eye candy...

Theoretically the fan, being PWM, can be controlled via the E96 ATS-V ECU which is the same as the C7 Supercharged ECU.

Initial cuts to fit Shroud to radiator. Note the top of the radiator is non shrouded just like the C7 to utilize the hood extractor/vent. I have an V8Archie hood vent installed.



Note the junkyard connector attached to the fan.. the standard C7 fan connector is about half the gauge size on the wires for the C7 supercharged. Had to track down the manufacturer of the connector, as it's not available from GM yet without buying full harness, and obtained a pack of 5 so that I can get the correct gauge wiring to the fan and keep the OE connectors.










After cutting up Lowe's ABS piping and using JB Plasti-Weld to shape the shroud to the Griffin

Nice work! Welcome to the fit/futz cycle...

Here are the Gland Nut adapters I obtained from Australia and then had ~1mm machined off the inside to fit the fiero strut housings to install a koni dual adjustable strut insert

WANT.
Got a link to vendor?

[draven]

Koni Gland Nut Adapters

http://realfierotech.com/viewtopic.php?p=158071#p158071

[The Dark Side of Will]

Koni Gland Nut Adapters

http://realfierotech.com/viewtopic.php?p=158071#p158071

Oh, I think I just got flexed on for attention span.

[draven]

Koni Gland Nut Adapters

http://realfierotech.com/viewtopic.php?p=158071#p158071

Oh, I think I just got flexed on for attention span.

thanks for the laugh, I needed it...... all good... I couldn't remember where I mentioned it and had to launch a search myself..

[Series8217]

Nice work. Really cool to see this is still progressing!