To build the ultimate 3.4 DOHC: Turbo DYNO NUMBERS

[Atilla the Fun]

320 whp will put a heavy Camaro into the high 12s without drag radials, You should be knocking on the 11 second door. You're 1000 pounds lighter, and don't have a pinion gear twisting a solid axle to try to lift the right rear tire.

[The Dark Side of Will]

I believe FieroX his 11's with 325ish whp...

[fieromadman]

I'll be the first to admit that I'm not John Force. I can street race pretty good, but the track is a whole different animal. I think the car is capable of mid to low 12's with me driving.

Shaun, really the only car that I raced since the turbo setup was a Integra with a all motor build. The day I raced him he ran a 13.6 at 104. I pulled on him as if he didn't even get on it. He's a buddy of mine though and he said he was in it to win it. The person riding in his car said that too.

Tune Is pretty good. It needs cold start prime times tuned and a little ignition here and there and more boost of course. I'm really just waiting until I get bigger injectors to fuck with it more. It's almost time to put it away for winter anyhow. Damn northern states.

[Matt Hawkins]

Manual trans turbo Fieros aren't the easiest thing to launch at the strip. I run high 11s with near 120 MPH trap speeds. 420 at the wheels.

[fieromadman]

When you launch you dont get in it all the way due to traction issues, correct? It's not till second that you can really get in it? It just sucks for us MTX guys because if we put slicks on to get the traction we just gernade trannys.

[Aaron]

Personally, and I can't speak for Matt of course, but I do get in it all the way. They spin through first and midway through 2nd, but the cool thing about the Fiero, is while they spin,t he car still accelerates hard. So that's my technique, I hold the RPMs at about 5, then floor it and drop the clutch. Little bit of smoke, some black streaks, and it's on to 3rd, where my shitty fucking spec clutch starts slipping.

[Shaun41178(2)]

When you launch you dont get in it all the way due to traction issues, correct? It's not till second that you can really get in it? It just sucks for us MTX guys because if we put slicks on to get the traction we just gernade trannys.

The manuals trap 4-5 mph higher though on the big end then the factory autos. hell I think even the getrags over the 4t65's with the 3800's trap about 4-5 mph higher with the same mods.

[fieromadman]

Shaun, yes this it true, but in 1/4 mile racing what happens in the 60ft REALLY determines how the rest of your run goes. I could trap stupid fast for my times I'm sure, just like Matt does, but if you can get a better launch it would help enormously. And no, I'm not going to be switching to an auto.

Aaron, spinning aint winning. That's all I gotta say about that. And I'm willing to bet that if you got some decent tires and suspension on that thing you wouldn't spin through second.

[Atilla the Fun]

If you're gonna get on the dragstrip, use DRs or true slicks and powershift. If you blow your tranny, step up. GForce makes a transverse trans that you won't break. If I break both the F40 and the NSX boxes, I'll step up, but I'm not so dumb as to baby the car in hopes of saving a trans. Babying isn't fun.

[fieromadman]

I finally just bought bigger injectors! It's been a long time comming but I was able to sell enough parts to pay for them. They are 66 lb/hr lucas style injectors. Pretty much the same thing that rc sells. Bought them from racetronix, here's a link: http://www.racetronix.biz/itemdesc.asp? ... 6x%2D6&Tp=

These should support more power than I'll ever make.

[Shaun41178(2)]

way too big in my opinion. Are they a peak and hold or a saturated injector? I would imagine the haltech can control either. There should be a table in your haltech to switch from satruated to peak and hold. if there is dont' forget to do this since the peak and hold don't require as much voltage.

If peak and hold, which they should be since I don't know of any that large that are saturated, its easier to go to a larger injector and still have a good idle. right now your haltech is probably setup for saturated injectors so a retune will def be in order from idle, part throttle to WOT.

you had 42s before or 36's? I think 55's would have been enough for you.

[Shaun41178(2)]

NEVER MIND. Finally clicked the link. they are saturated injectors (high impedence). Nothing changes other then the amount of fuel.

Let us know how the idle tuning process goes.

[coinage]

Just wondering why you went with 66lb/hr? Just so they are good to 650chp? Its good to see that some more progress will be made and can wait to see what kind of numbers you put down. you are planning on 15psi right? I think thats what I will turn mine up to in the spring and Im hoping for some decent numbers.

[fieromadman]

Well, I bought those because I had a real hard time finding anything smaller that I would be comfortable with. I thought that the 36's i had would have been fine, but their not. So I figured better to go big than to go home... a second time. The same company, for 3 dollars per injector cheaper had some 55's that probably would have worked, but i know that these will work for me definately, so why not. I was kinda worried about the idle issues being that they are saturated, but I think i should be able to get around them. For christ sakes, they make up to 120 pound per hour in the saturated style, so those guys have to be able to make them work.

And coinage, yes I'm shooting for 15 pounds and hopefully 450ish whp.

BTW, the Haltech does control peak and hold, but I just wanted these because I KNEW they would fit in the rail, and I knew that they would work with the Haltech.

[The Dark Side of Will]

NEVER MIND. Finally clicked the link. they are saturated injectors (high impedence). Nothing changes other then the amount of fuel.

Let us know how the idle tuning process goes.

The offsets (opening/closing times) are also almost certainly different. Getting the offsets right in the computer is EXTREMELY important to idle tuning.

[Atilla the Fun]

So what percent is the duty cycle at idle with 55 pounders on that tiny little 3.4? I'm wondering if this is even possible, as I know that 5.0L fords won't idle with 55 pounders, and this engine wants even less air per cylinder at idle. In that situation, those guys switch to an intake manifold that accepts a second set of injectors. Then the stock computer can run the stock injectors for idle, mileage and emissions, and an aftermarket piggyback controller runs the second set of injectors and intercepts and modifies the ignition timing.

[coinage]

I have 50lb/hr and my idle is great.

[fieromadman]

I got my injectors today. I should have them installed tomorrow. I'll keep you guys updated on tuning.

[fieromadman]

Got the injectors installed, and started the tuning process. Couple things I have found out. First, my idle is fine even with these injectors, two, I'm gonna need ALOT of tuning even after mathematically figuring out what the theoretical fuel values should be, and three, I need to slap my hand to stop it from turning up the boost till my tune is closer.

[fieromadman]

I got some tuning done today and for the first time ran more than 5 pounds of boost. I turned it up to eight pounds today but took quite a bit of ignition timing out of it from the rediculous ammount that i was running before. Bottom line, the car is faster than it was but not by much at that boost level. The car should be fast as fuck at 15 psi though. I'm getting excited!