starting my 5.3 with pics

[Atilla the Fun]

the assumption is correct. As for tapered spacers, that would be correct, but since I decided to keep the rear of the cradle rubber instead of poly or aluminum (the front does 99% of the locating anyway) for ride quality, so I can trim the rubber at whatever angle. I found longer bolts at Fastenal, they had to order them, but they can get them. I'll give PN and price when I can.

[The Dark Side of Will]

Atilla, how big can a production 6.0 iron block be bored?

The bug's about to bite...

[Atilla the Fun]

4.067", for which you can easily get forged pistons for a 4" stroke, is fine for a serious build, the walls aren't too thin for serious power. If you want to fill the water jackets, with block filler, then 4.125" is possible, if you're gonna be 100% dragstrip and 0% street, running alcohol for fuel. If you want more than a 4" stroke, you run into issues with the cylinders not extending as far into the crankcase as the LS7 Z06 block's cylinders.

[Atilla the Fun]

update: I've ordered the '98-'02 camaro LS1 alternator mounting set-up, including the idler pulley, a bracket, a brace, and the bolts. I didn't get the alternator, but that's okay, I have one that should work. The issue is the matching crank pulley. If this is a no-go, that's okay, I really ordered these parts for the LM7 that's now in my Mustang. But while I can, I'll try this in my Fiero, just because noone else has told of trying it. Also, I'm going ahead with trying the '95 Probe GT starter, because anyone can get one from auto Zone, and unlike using an aftermarket mini-starter, which can be discontinued at any time, these starters will be available at AutoZone for many years.
Also, as I told you last year that I would, I have finished my first adapter plate, and am now using it as a template for cutting a nicer one. Not that I need it with the LS4, but I can try it.
I do forsee a problem with trying the camaro pulley, as the Ls4 crank is reported to have a shorter snout, though I haven't measured for myself. Yet. If I have to pull the LM7 from the Mustang, I will.
For the cradle rotation, I goofed up when I drilled the driver's-side bracket on the car, that accepts the cradle, and thus I haven't started with washers and welding yet. I know some of you think I should be doing engine or handling, instead of both at a time. But I am making progress.

[Atilla the Fun]

notice this lighting really shows the teeth in the '95 Probe GT starter.

and this is better at showing the mounting ears.

this is where it came from.

here's a shot taken with the camera near the floor.

a bit higher.

and on up.

[Atilla the Fun]

Update: With the Probe GT now running, and the new cam "broken-in" in the S-10, I can get back to this project.

[Atilla the Fun]

Progress, and not. I've misplaced both the digital camera, and the flywheel. I did order the Speedway Motors adapter plate, but it has issues, and is best thought of as part of a template for making your own. Of course I was trying it on my LM7, and had to drill 4 new holes in it to clear 4 bolts in the end cover that holds the rear main seal, but also extends up past the top of the cam tunnel. So, I bolted the Speedway plate to the F40. I'd already done some grinding on the block to clear the bolt heads for this, so the nuts are on the trans side. Even so, I was only able to get 3 bolts. I coulda made it 4 except the lower left/front hole of the plate is sized for the hollow dowel. Anyway, then I bolted these to the block, and again, was only able to get 3 bolts. I need pics to show what I mean. So, until I find my flywheel, no progress with the starter.

[Atilla the Fun]

I am delighted that at least 7 of you are still following this, thank you. Saturday afternoon I fabricated some mounts and attached the F40 to the cradle. It's currently attached to the LM7 with the 1/8" speedway plate. So this morning I lowered the Fiero onto the cradle, and it turned out my measuring Saturday was really close. The F40 is touching the Fiero, but just barely. The eng/trans are now pretty far forward on the cradle, and could be mounted another 1/2" lower, but I still haven't mounted the engine yet, it's again sitting on that same block of wood, but now a bit farther to the driver's side. It turns out I lied about the TB clearing if pointed at the passenger side, it won't go that way. I couldn't use any of the new holes I drilled, in the alum cradle bushings or the brackets. The coil and valve cover are tight against the hinge box, probably mostly from me moving the engine forward for better weight distribution. I may yet have it slightly crooked, it looks like the driver side has the axle running rearward from the F40 to the hub, but the other side looks decently aligned. It looks like there won't be anything interfering with the shifter cables and bracketry and such. To use an oil filter with this setup, I would need to either cut the cradle or get a filter relocation kit, but that's still waiting for me to get the LS2 Corvette oil pan. I wanted to get pics, but the camera is still misplaced somewhere. The '00 Z28 exhaust manifolds are still an excellent fit. Pics will be coming, they always do eventually! I'm going to have to redo one or both trans mounts. The front one is Energy Suspension polygraphite with internal interlock, the rear one is Fiero Store rubber, with a custom bracket. I can duplicate it for about $5 if I end up keeping it. Next will be trying to find an F-car damper for a test fit. Anyone know of one I can buy for under $97?

[Atilla the Fun]

[Atilla the Fun]

none of those wires and hoses are connected at both ends, I just let them stay where they happened to settle. I'll get another pic with most of them moved aside.

[Atilla the Fun]

[Atilla the Fun]

in the right half, notice the interference between the valve cover and that bit from the hinge box area. That needs attended to.

[Atilla the Fun]

[Atilla the Fun]

I did bend the Air Injection tube before raising the engine, I'll post a pic of that. But here we see how I got it just perfect, It's not actually putting any pressure on the coil/connector, nor on the thing above it. I got lucky.

[Atilla the Fun]

[Atilla the Fun]

sorry this one is not in perfect focus, the coil is right against that other thing, but if I were to leave it like this and solid mount the engine, it wouldn't be a problem. Oops, gotta go. The rest of the pics will be up as I find time.

[Atilla the Fun]

oops, It turns out I was mistaken. There is some pressure. But nothing's damaged, so on with the pics, notes, and evaluation of what I've done this go-round.

here's a different angle on the point of contact.

[Atilla the Fun]

and here's a better pic of the coil contacting. But the plug wire still goes on all the way.

here's showing the F40 being all the way to the driver's side

[Atilla the Fun]

here's my temporary rear bracket positioning the F40.

and this is the remaining space for a damper/pulley setup.

[Atilla the Fun]

this should show the hinge arm contacting the coil. Not good.