I never claimed to be a welder (aka Don's Turbo Build)

[The Dark Side of Will]

ok, so I'm sitting around yesterday trying to figure out how I got to 10psi.

I mean, it said on the tial box that it had the red, 5.8 spring installed and this was an unused item. So unless the line was kinked or something, it shouldn't ever go that high, right?

well, I pulled the top off just to be certain, and here's this big green fucker lookin at me. 13.05psi rating according to the website.

what ya'll think? Thanks in advance!

A) Bitch to Tial about their quality control

B) Trust but verify (IE, you should have looked to make sure you had the spring you thought you had)

C) Tune, tune, tune.

You have knock sensing capability?

[Honest Don]

ok, so I'm sitting around yesterday trying to figure out how I got to 10psi.

I mean, it said on the tial box that it had the red, 5.8 spring installed and this was an unused item. So unless the line was kinked or something, it shouldn't ever go that high, right?

well, I pulled the top off just to be certain, and here's this big green fucker lookin at me. 13.05psi rating according to the website.

what ya'll think? Thanks in advance!

A) Bitch to Tial about their quality control

B) Trust but verify (IE, you should have looked to make sure you had the spring you thought you had)

C) Tune, tune, tune.

You have knock sensing capability?

you're absolutely right, I should've looked first. but hey, at least I was sneaking up on it

the only knock sensing I have are my ears and looking at the plugs. I believe the MSII has the capability though. Is there a sensor out that adapts to the 2.8 block without much trouble?

[The Dark Side of Will]

A) Bitch to Tial about their quality control

PROCESS control, you idiot!

Or maybe configuration control...

[Shaun41178(2)]

if you bought it directly from tial then I would complain to them and see if they will give you a lower psi spring for free since they screwed up. Or tell them you want to exchange it if they won't give you one for free because you feel you shouldn't have to pay for it. Just keep stating it was their goof up and you don't want to be out any money.

I think safely with 91 octane 7 psi is good for a stock 2.8. It could probably handle 10 psi daily, not sure how long though. I would go to a thicker weight oil if you haven't already to help with those rods bearings. I run 20/50 in mine. I guess it all depends on if you want to push the envelope or not, and if you have a spare motor ready to go. I would turn it down to 7 psi, and have fun for a while. You just got it running after a lot of work and it would stink if the motor went right away without really getting to enjoy it. A lot of it of course depends on how good the tune is. I mean some people on old europe have blown their motors up on 5 psi because they didn't tune it properly. Hell PBJ blew up his turbo n star on only 4 psi of boost.

Just to let you know though I have run 10 psi plus nitrous for over a year on my current 3.4 and it is still togethor running on 93 octane though. I am now up to 14 psi and have hit 18 psi on a few occasions on accident. But right now I am working on getting it tuned in on 14 lbs and see how long it lasts. I don't think my rings are really liking it though.

[Nashco]

http://www.viatrack.ca/

That's the best way to get plug 'n play knock sense with the MSII in my opinion. Not only does it give you a useful knock signal for the MSII to pull spark and overlays data onto the coolant temp for datalogging purposes (easy to see when knock occurred when looking at the logs), but it can be used as a standalone if you want to toss it onto another car (flashes an LED) for testing.

Bryce

[Aaron]

13 pounds is where I'd be sitting.

But once tuned and dynoed, cough cough DYNOED, I'd drop it to an 8.7 spring, unless you on a regular basis want the extra 50hp or so, which on a 2.8 you might. My 3.4 at 9psi is scary fast, so I have no need for 14psi. But if the need arose (1/4mi, dyno), I could raise it easily.

[Honest Don]

so if I'm reading this right, the tune will be the determining factor. And if all is well there, the engine should be able to take it?

Just out of curiosity, what's the most boost someone has successfully pushed through one of these? on race gas?


Shaun makes a good point though, I would like to have a little fun with the car before pushing my luck.

I think what I'm going to do is pick up a 10lb spring for the season and then maybe throw the 13 in this fall and see what it can do. They sell 110 octane goodness down the street from me, so I can always splash in a few gallons for saftey's sake on the big spring.

Don't worry Aaron, I'll be on a dyno when I turn up the wick, maybe sooner.


Nashco - Thanks for the link!

[Shaun41178(2)]

The tune will be the big determining factor in how long yoru motor will last. THe timing and a/f ratio plays a huge roll. More so then just a set boost amount. Like I have said some people on poopcocks have blown their motors up on 4 psi of boost before because they didn't know how to tune the car.

If you can get 110 unleaded, then I would run more then 13 psi and also have two timing maps for your megasquirt. the higher octance will allow for more timing to be run which means more power. So you would need a pump gas tune, and a race gas tune. The pump gas tune would very easily be able to be done on the street with a few tanks of gas. With the race gas tune I would buy some dyno time and get it all over with in a couple of hours. I would imagine 110 would be around $7/gallon.

Or get a 7 psi spring (.5 bar) and get an adjustable boost controller off of ebay. I got a cheapo $5.99 boost controller and it works good So then you can have a small wastegate spring for everyday driving and turn the boost up whenever you want with the twist of a knob to the higher setting when you want to put the dirt down on someone.

[Nashco]

Or you could use your megasquirt to control the boost. Cheaper, more control, software based instead of hardware based, etc. Heck, I think running dual maps for your different fuels would even give you the ability to adjust boost automatically based on fuel selection.

Bryce

[p8ntman442]

if you bought it directly from tial then I would complain to them and see if they will give you a lower psi spring for free since they screwed up. Or tell them you want to exchange it if they won't give you one for free because you feel you shouldn't have to pay for it. Just keep stating it was their goof up and you don't want to be out any money.

F that, call them and tell them they sent you the wrong spring and they need to make it right buy buying you the parts necessary to run 13 psi safely.

[Honest Don]

.

[Shaun41178(2)]

it costs a bit extra. So what?

Stock computer sucks. Fuel and spark curves only go up to either 4500 rpm or 4800 rpm. So when you rev your motor to 6500 it makes no sense to run it on a fuel and timing map for 4500 rpm now does it? MS allows adjustable curves at 6500 rpm which stock computer can't do. Factory iron head fiero computer is old and slow. Seriously why not use a computer from nasa from the Voyager program? I mean its nasa shit right?

Don't ruin don's thread aaron. This is your warning.

[Jinxmutt]

That kit looks a lot like the valve I got from grainger...

[Nashco]

That kit looks a lot like the valve I got from grainger...

Sure does. Do you have a part number for reference? Until I read that thing over on diyautotune, I didn't know the valve wasn't available from GM anymore.

Bryce

[Jinxmutt]

I probably have a GM one around if you want it?

[The Dark Side of Will]

I like the new moderator control panel.

[The Dark Side of Will]

it costs a bit extra. So what?

Stock computer sucks. Fuel and spark curves only go up to either 4500 rpm or 4800 rpm. So when you rev your motor to 6500 it makes no sense to run it on a fuel and timing map for 4500 rpm now does it? MS allows adjustable curves at 6500 rpm which stock computer can't do. Factory iron head fiero computer is old and slow. Seriously why not use a computer from nasa from the Voyager program? I mean its nasa shit right?

I wouldn't suggest anyone use the stock Fiero computer for anything. If he wanted to run a GM computer in this app, it should be 7730 all the way.

The factory tables may stop at 4500, but the program includes multipliers that allow the tuner to MAP linear VE and spark curves out as high as he wants. No, it won't be appropriate a 19,000 RPM F1 engine, but it does fine for most 6000 RPM powerplants, as long as peak power is in the low-mid 5's or so. The 2.8 made peak power right at the top of the tables, but still revs to 6000 stock.

MS, of course, is FAR more tunable... after all that's what it was DESIGNED to do.

The last time I saw the tuning interface, simplicity was its primary virtue. That's been a few years now, so maybe it's better than it was.

[Honest Don]

The last time I saw the tuning interface, simplicity was its primary virtue. That's been a few years now, so maybe it's better than it was.

Megatune on a MS2 with the lastest code is pretty powerful compared to the older units. I'm running fuel, spark, TCC lockup, and even my IAC stepper motor with it now. It's still refreshingly intuitive to use though.


Megalogviewer fucking kicks ass as well for getting the fuel table dialed in. I like it so much I'm even considering paying the registration fee

[Honest Don]

MOAR PICTARS!!!!



Got the obligatory boost gauge mounted





Even lights up kinda orange like the rest







The front mount showed up the other day. More on this later...








Can you believe my father-in-law was going to throw away this toolbox?






hose barbs???






I've nicknamed this thing "The Still"






yeah, it looks a little shadetree. But, I needed somewhere to mount my pump and reservoir, and I figure that a few coils of copper and some ice couldn't hurt in keeping my IATs friendly. I don't know how effective its going to actually be, but it cost next to nothing to build and hey, its worth a shot






Hey, it drops right in!











Engine view as it sits today:

[Jinxmutt]

The "still" doesn't look water tight. Not really sure how well ice water will stay in there. If it leaks, you can forget about using it on the track.

[/nitpick] you need a straight end on that coil wire [/nitpick]