Real Fiero Tech

compression ratio is only thing that will be affected. Go with whatever makes you more comfortable

If the divot has a sharp machined point, it might be for a dead center to help maintain concentricity when grinding the valves.

while the LQ1 is at Ball Engine getting worked over I've started work on the interior. Removing the integrated firewall speaker boxes, at 6'3" I could use the legroom, R&R the floor plan plugs, reinstall some sound deadening, new carpet, etc..etc..

Regardless, after ripping out the liquid nailed speaker boxes from the firewall I've noticed that he did the "cut" the firewall channel at the lower firewall area to make room for the subwoofers. He didn't go from seam to seam, just about 7" by 15" or so..

Since this channel is indirectly open to the engine by I'd like to seal this back off while returning the interior to a more or less stock state.. Can I just sheet metal screw some 1/8" inch aluminum to the openings and then use some seam sealer or do I need to weldon some sheet metal back on for any structural purposes?

thanks!

That's definitely a structural cut. Crash safety probably isn't affected, but I would replace the cut metal with new welded pieces.

FieroWanaBe1 wrote:That's definitely a structural cut. Crash safety probably isn't affected, but I would replace the cut metal with new welded pieces.

Not too sure, maybe not.. the cuts didn't go "cut into" the channel itself, he just opened up a hole on the firewall side that created an opening to create room for the sub magnets. Much like this picture:

Just a follow up to this thread. I tore the LQ1 all the way down inspecting as I went. My original plans all along have been to turbo it. The Intermediate shaft and rod journal bearings were moving to the far side of south and the piston to wall clearance was a bit out of spec and slightly ovaled. All this on a block that was less than 15K miles old..

I took the engine to a local shop Ball Engine in Atlanta to have it torn down with a decent rebuild.

The engine is having the following done.

hot tanked
bored .30 over
sealed power pistons
arp rod bolts
rod re-bore
clevite tri metal bearings (rod and crank)
casting flash removed from oil drain back in the heads and under timing cover
clevite valvesvalve seats reground (5 angle)
valve guides
crank polished
sbc bearings on intermediate shaft

pics to come in a build thread as soon as it returns.


here's the link to the engine shop..

http://ballengines.com very professional and knew an awful lot about the LQ1 the moment I brought it in..