Aaron's other 3.4 DOHC 88GT Build Thread

Kohburn · Post by **Kohburn** » Tue May 30, 2006 1:26 pm

I used rodneys front trans mount - and modded it to drop the trans about 1/2" -- then used a dodge truck mount on the rear trans mount.. and used another poly mount on the front engine mount and some poly end links for another engine mount, then a rubber dogbone..

it rocked the engine towards the trunk about an inch or so and lowered the whole engine maybe 3/4"

Mach10 · Post by **Mach10** » Tue May 30, 2006 1:35 pm

That'd have done it. I'm doing the dodge mount bit. Don't think I'm going to bother rotating the engine, though. Not sure what exactly that'd accomplish in my own setup. :thumbleft:

Kohburn · Post by **Kohburn** » Tue May 30, 2006 1:39 pm

Mach10 wrote:That'd have done it. I'm doing the dodge mount bit. Don't think I'm going to bother rotating the engine, though. Not sure what exactly that'd accomplish in my own setup. :thumbleft:

what it did for me is the only dodge mount in my setup is under compression the entire time except under engine braking.. chances of tearing it in half become slim to none --- all the other poly mounts have internal interlocks

Mach10 · Post by **Mach10** » Tue May 30, 2006 1:49 pm

Ahhhhhh. I see.

I admit, it's been somewhat tempting to put a bolt through each with some rubber washers to stop the pull from going after the rubber.

The way I'm assembling them, I still have the fiero interlocks as a fail-safe, but I'll admit that I'm somewhat nervous about shearing them off.

Kohburn · Post by **Kohburn** » Tue May 30, 2006 1:53 pm

using the thin truck mount the fiero interlock actually wouldn't let the top plate bolt on.. had to cut it off

see how short the thin one is

and this is the part on the left that got in the way when attaching the tranny

Mach10 · Post by **Mach10** » Tue May 30, 2006 1:54 pm

Way I saw it, it would have to be massaged to work. I'll have to look at it again, but I saw how it could be accomplished.

Series8217 · Post by **Series8217** » Tue May 30, 2006 1:57 pm

Just buy the dodge truck mounts that have the built in interlock.

.. and quit being such a post whore!

Kohburn · Post by **Kohburn** » Tue May 30, 2006 2:00 pm

Series8217 wrote:Just buy the dodge truck mounts that have the built in interlock.

.. and quit being such a post whore!

those interlocks are a joke - forget who it was but they tore those up when the rubber came apart..

Mach10 · Post by **Mach10** » Tue May 30, 2006 2:02 pm

Series8217 wrote: .. and quit being such a post whore!

Fuck you... I'm bored. :thumbleft:
Already bought the mounts. No idea if they have the interlocks. Are they internal?

Kohburn: I'll have to look at it again, I suppose.

*edit*

Holy shit... 1057 posts?!? I *AM* a post whore :sad2:

Aaron · Post by **Aaron** » Tue May 30, 2006 2:29 pm

I will be using just new stock mounts, plus adding a mount where my A/C was, and building my own dogbone. I think this should hold fine with a stock DOHC. I also might lower it a little with another Dodge truck mount, seeing as though I have 5 of those fuckers, and they are much cheaper than new mounts, especially Rodney's.

Kohburn · Post by **Kohburn** » Tue May 30, 2006 2:35 pm

Aaron wrote:I will be using just new stock mounts, plus adding a mount where my A/C was, and building my own dogbone. I think this should hold fine with a stock DOHC. I also might lower it a little with another Dodge truck mount, seeing as though I have 5 of those fuckers, and they are much cheaper than new mounts, especially Rodney's.

if you want to fabricate brackets (which you have to for the dodge mounts) then you may as well fab them for the universal poly - either the round ones like WCF uses or the interlocking ones like rodney uses (25$)

Aaron · Post by **Aaron** » Tue May 30, 2006 2:37 pm

Every fucking time I find a way to do it, you all tell me to do it a different way.

I quit teh RFT.

Aaron · Post by **Aaron** » Tue May 30, 2006 2:40 pm

Ok I'm done quitting.

I don't know yet. I'm not afriad of fabrication, especially if it saves me some money, but I'd rather not, especially on this car. Though i wouldn't mind the engine being a little lower.

Next time I'm down working on it I'll look into it, and decide what I'm going to do.

My wiring still looks like ass, always will, and still isn't complete. I hate wiring.

Kohburn · Post by **Kohburn** » Tue May 30, 2006 2:40 pm

Aaron wrote:Every fucking time I find a way to do it, you all tell me to do it a different way.

I quit teh RFT.

because you keep trying to use the stock crap rubber that falls apart from a mear 140hp

Aaron · Post by **Aaron** » Tue May 30, 2006 2:44 pm

But with adding a solid dogbone, and another rubber mount.

Kohburn · Post by **Kohburn** » Tue May 30, 2006 2:47 pm

Aaron wrote:But with adding a solid dogbone, and another rubber mount.

where is the solid mount going?

because with rubber everywhere else, it'll be taking huge shock loads that float past all the rubber mounts

Aaron · Post by **Aaron** » Tue May 30, 2006 2:50 pm

solid dogbone mount, in the stock 2.8 dogbone location, mounting to the 3.4's lift bracket.

Kohburn · Post by **Kohburn** » Tue May 30, 2006 3:06 pm

Aaron wrote:solid dogbone mount, in the stock Boat Anchor dogbone location, mounting to the 3.4's lift bracket.

get ready to replace the front engine cover after it breaks into peices..

Mach10 · Post by **Mach10** » Tue May 30, 2006 3:15 pm

Yeah, I don't trust it.

I've got mine bolted such that it's braced with the power steering pump... It held up even though the 2 trans mounts sheared clean off, and the front mount started to tear.

Still won't fully trust it until I get the rest of the motor buttoned down.

More I think about it, the more I'm thinking I should use a 3/8 cap screw through the rubber mounts (carriage-bolt so the head doesn't interfere with mounting) with a couple of rubber washers and a nylon locknut to stop the fucker from moving more than 1/4" up.

The Dark Side of Will · Tue May 30, 2006 4:20 pm

Kohburn wrote:
The Dark Side of Will wrote:It would have been nicer if GM had run the wiring out between the shift cables.

The routing isn't very intelligent, either. The C500 and the C203 are redundant. There should have been only one firwall pass through. The C203 should have had twice as many pins. The tail light wiring could have gone straight through the engine harness wiring and plugged into the chassis behind the engine compartment and probably saved a bunch of copper...
modular system for multiple setups.. notchy/fastback, 4cyl/6cyl

Can make my way modular easily enough. My point was that the GM routing uses significantly more copper than it has to. My Northstar harnesses are smaller and lighter than GM's V6 harnesses.