I have a wraparound spoiler that I bought from X and I want to bond it to the decklid instead of bolt it. I have the decklid and the spoiler sanded from all paint to just bare fiberglass.
What bonding agents do you guys recommend for fiberglass to fiberglass? Also place of purchase. Thanks
Bonding spoiler to decklid
Moderators: The Dark Side of Will, Series8217
-
Shaun41178(2)
- Posts: 8571
- Joined: Fri Nov 19, 2004 7:12 pm
- Location: Ben Phelps is an alleged scammer
Bonding spoiler to decklid
FieroPhrek working on that ls4 swap for 18 years and counting now. 18 years!!!!! LOL
BEWARE OF BEN PHELPS. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED. WORSE THAN MILZY IMO
BEWARE OF BEN PHELPS. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED. WORSE THAN MILZY IMO
-
AntiCooter
- Posts: 70
- Joined: Sat Jun 11, 2005 12:21 am
-
BigRedDeckSpoiler
- Posts: 232
- Joined: Wed May 04, 2005 1:10 pm
- Location: Down Souf
I have one of those (hence the screen name).
I thought about bonding mine, but the problem with that (other than the bonding/filling itself) is that it will allow water to collect in huge puddles on your decklid if you park pointed uphill in the rain. A gallon+ of water, all at once, has to be really good for headers or manifolds. Not.
FWIW, I did bond my IMSA whaletail to my fastback's decklid.
I researched the shit out of it, and searched out all of the recommended stuff (SMC resin and filler), and it's still fucking cracking where the filler ends and the fiberglass begins. That's after only 6 months. Of course, it was my first real experiment with fiberglass bonding, so I might have messed it up. Even though I asked my body guy/painter to finish it, I'm certainly not blaming him, since I laid down the basics.
Having said all that... When I get the red car repainted, the spoiler will stay bolted, only.
I thought about bonding mine, but the problem with that (other than the bonding/filling itself) is that it will allow water to collect in huge puddles on your decklid if you park pointed uphill in the rain. A gallon+ of water, all at once, has to be really good for headers or manifolds. Not.
FWIW, I did bond my IMSA whaletail to my fastback's decklid.
I researched the shit out of it, and searched out all of the recommended stuff (SMC resin and filler), and it's still fucking cracking where the filler ends and the fiberglass begins. That's after only 6 months. Of course, it was my first real experiment with fiberglass bonding, so I might have messed it up. Even though I asked my body guy/painter to finish it, I'm certainly not blaming him, since I laid down the basics.
Having said all that... When I get the red car repainted, the spoiler will stay bolted, only.
BRDS
this is the stuff we order at work for customers, had no complaints about it yet. One customer said that bodyshops use the metal bonding glue to glue on complete roof panels to cars, instead of cutting the old one out and rewelding a new one on, they just glue this one overtop, and it works fine:
http://www.autobodysupply.net/duramix.htm
http://www.autobodysupply.net/duramix.htm
-
AntiCooter
- Posts: 70
- Joined: Sat Jun 11, 2005 12:21 am
The superglue comment was not to be taken seriously. On the fiberglass to smc scoops that I have done, this is what I did:
Remove paint on area to be bonded with a rough paper- 36 to 40 grit. Extend the roughened area at least an inch beyond the spoiler.
Scuff the area on the scoop/spoiler where the bonding adhesive will be applied with the same 36-40 grit paper.
Have a way to mechanically attach the parts together (bolted or screwed).
Align the parts and mark everything so that it will be easy to put in place when the glue is applied.
I have 2 people mixing the adhesive and applying it so I can be sure to get it on and everything in place before the stuff starts drying.
Apply the adhesive to both parts- you want it to squeeze out when you put it in place and tighten the fasteners. Use the spreader to smooth out this extra glue.
When the glue is dry, rough sand it down. You will need some fiberglass cloth and epoxy resin (NOT fiberglass/polyester resin). Cut the cloth in strips to cover the edge where the spoiler meets the lid. Mix the resin/apply and allow to dry.
Once dry, rough sand the resin/cloth and apply filler (or the left over panel adhesive) to smooth out the transition between the parts. Allow this to dry/harden for a few days before applying a good urethane or epoxy primer.
I've done a couple like this and after a couple of years, there is no signs of seperation or cracking.
Remove paint on area to be bonded with a rough paper- 36 to 40 grit. Extend the roughened area at least an inch beyond the spoiler.
Scuff the area on the scoop/spoiler where the bonding adhesive will be applied with the same 36-40 grit paper.
Have a way to mechanically attach the parts together (bolted or screwed).
Align the parts and mark everything so that it will be easy to put in place when the glue is applied.
I have 2 people mixing the adhesive and applying it so I can be sure to get it on and everything in place before the stuff starts drying.
Apply the adhesive to both parts- you want it to squeeze out when you put it in place and tighten the fasteners. Use the spreader to smooth out this extra glue.
When the glue is dry, rough sand it down. You will need some fiberglass cloth and epoxy resin (NOT fiberglass/polyester resin). Cut the cloth in strips to cover the edge where the spoiler meets the lid. Mix the resin/apply and allow to dry.
Once dry, rough sand the resin/cloth and apply filler (or the left over panel adhesive) to smooth out the transition between the parts. Allow this to dry/harden for a few days before applying a good urethane or epoxy primer.
I've done a couple like this and after a couple of years, there is no signs of seperation or cracking.
-
Driven Visions
- Posts: 8
- Joined: Thu Aug 10, 2006 12:04 pm
- Location: Duluth MN
- Contact: