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Another backwards Spec clutch?
Posted: Sun Oct 15, 2006 3:43 pm
by Red
I need some help here guys. In one of the other threads, there was discussion about some Spec clutches being assembled incorrectly.
Here's what's happening... it's a 3800SC 5-speed setup with a Spec Stage II clutch. Just got it running and there's a ticking/knocking sound that changes with RPM. Most noticable by the transmission. It's not terribly loud, but is noticable. As soon as I press on the clutch, the noise is GONE. Quiet as a church mouse.
I've driven the car and it drives fine. The clutch engages and disengages properly. However, I can't figure out why it's making this noise other than to think that something's hitting in the bell housing.
I took a few pictures of the clutch before I assembled it. Hopefully someone can look at these pictures and tell if the hub is backwards on the clutch.
http://www.fiero.net/~jim/spec1.jpg
http://www.fiero.net/~jim/spec2.jpg
Thanks!
Posted: Sun Oct 15, 2006 4:12 pm
by Series8217
Doesn't look like it's backwards but I can't tell for sure without a shot from the side.
Posted: Sun Oct 15, 2006 5:25 pm
by Shaun41178(2)
From my experience the clutch cna only go on one way. So if you were able to get it to all bolt togethor, it should be on correct.
Now that clutch also doesnt' appear to have the nubbin that sticks out towards the input shaft that I had a problem with as did many others so you should be good there.
Usually when you have a ticking noise in the tranny and you push on the clutch pedal and it goes away, is a sign that you have a bad throwout bearing.
Posted: Sun Oct 15, 2006 7:58 pm
by crzyone
Looks like the center isn't sticking out far enough to cause a problem.
My spec stage 3 also makes a ticking sound if I let the clutch out quickly. If I slowly take my foot off the clutch the sound doesn't appear. Not quite sure what makes that sound, maybe Spec's throwout bearings are junk.
Posted: Sun Oct 15, 2006 9:20 pm
by p8ntman442
2nd the throw out bearing as the problem. My new one makes all kinds of confidence inspiring sounds that a new unit shouldnt make.
Just thinking though, does the T/O bearing contact the clutch fingers at its Normally open state, if not, then that cant be your problem, because it wouldnt be spinning.
Posted: Tue Oct 17, 2006 10:59 am
by The Dark Side of Will
spring in the slave cylinder keeps the TOB in contact with the clutch fingers.
Posted: Wed Oct 18, 2006 9:11 pm
by DOHC GT
I had the same issue. It was the T/O BEARING SLEEVE & SEAL. The part that the TO bearing rides on broke off. It sucks cause you have to split the case to replace it.
Chris
Posted: Wed Oct 18, 2006 9:26 pm
by The Dark Side of Will
Depends on how much machining skill you have. It's theoretically possible to pull the input shaft bearing out and press a new on in without splitting the case.
Posted: Wed Oct 18, 2006 11:42 pm
by Series8217
I don't think you're going to be able to do it without splitting the case. The sleeve is pretty thin. Try and let us know
Posted: Thu Oct 19, 2006 12:58 pm
by The Dark Side of Will
A collet or shaft collar the right size could grab the sleeve and then allow a puller purchase to remove the bearing.
Posted: Fri Oct 20, 2006 10:00 pm
by Red
DOHC GT wrote:I had the same issue. It was the T/O BEARING SLEEVE & SEAL. The part that the TO bearing rides on broke off. It sucks cause you have to split the case to replace it.
Chris
The transmission has very low miles on it, and this has been doing it from the get go. I've put maybe ONE MILE on the setup since getting it running. Do you really think the input shaft sleeve has broken?
Posted: Fri Oct 20, 2006 11:19 pm
by redhot
maybe the flywheel was machined incorrectly
Posted: Sat Oct 21, 2006 5:02 am
by MNFatz
That's a correctly assembled disk.
Posted: Sat Apr 07, 2007 11:58 pm
by Red
Posted: Sun Apr 08, 2007 8:57 am
by Blue Shift
I think you're fine. As long as the hub bit doesn't stick out toward the input shaft sleeve (which has rubbed, galled a burr, and caused the TOB to get stuck). If I'm seeing it right it looks like the hub is flush with the surface of the disc that's on the tranny side.
On another note, when somebody pointed out my problem and I pulled the clutch out, it looks like SPEC machined down the hub to try to "fix" the problem, which would imply that they know of the problem. I ended up getting a replacement from them, and I forgot to send the old disc in - it's sitting on my DOHC parts display on my shelf...
Posted: Sun Apr 08, 2007 6:39 pm
by Series8217
Looks right to me.
Posted: Tue Apr 10, 2007 4:31 pm
by donk_316
Why do you guys keep buying spec clutches if its a crapshoot if they are assembled correctly or not?
Posted: Tue Apr 10, 2007 5:56 pm
by crzyone
Because when they are assembled right they hold V-8 torque and are streetable.
Posted: Tue Apr 10, 2007 7:21 pm
by EarlBarnes
Mine did that ticking sound crap when I had the stickshift and the spec(thought it was only me), The TO bearing was a special order from advance But never gave me any problems(because spec sent me a TO bearing for a GETRAG transmission instead of a izusu, PS if anyone needs a TO bearing for a GETRAG send me a PM, Free to a good home, Person pays for shipping.
Posted: Tue Apr 10, 2007 11:31 pm
by Sinister Fiero
It may NOT be the T.O. bearing NOR the spec clutch. I have seen/worked on a few Fieros lately that had worn/hi-mileage getrags. A typical sign of this is a ticking/knocking sound (sounds like marbles rattling around inside of the trans) while the car is idling and not moving. If the sound goes away when you push the clutch all the way in or the trans is in gear and the car is moving then the problem could be a worn-out trans.
If this is the case, what is occuring is the gear clusters and their support bearings/bushings inside the trans have become loose/worn enough that the clearance is so great that these noises occur. The only way to repair this problem is a complete trans rebuild.
-ryan
