Real Fiero Tech

Dunno how I managed to miss it, but I managed to snag the clutch line while dropping the engine last year.

Bonus Points: I didn't notice until yesterday while reconnecting lines.

I managed to shear off the flare nipple on something. The clutch line is bent (kinked? I dunno) right before the braided steel union starts.

Do I HAVE to replace the whole damn thing, or can anyone recommend a fix? The rest of the line right up to the master cyl is in great shape, so it seems silly to replace it (if I can even find anything) if I can just replace the section I wrecked....

Obviously, I don't have any of them hydraulic braided crimping tools... How does one normally attach hydraulic braided line to steel hardline without said tool?

I'm assuming you don't want to remove the whole line, but if you did, you could just take it to a place that does hydraulic lines, and they could put a new end on it for you. What's the inner lining of the braided lines made out of? You may be able to use the same kind of fitting you would use with "regular" ss braided hose, and then just flare the hardline.

Thing is, I don't think I've ever seen a source for SS hydraulic hose that actually had ends on it...

If it's just a case of a simple double/bubble flare, I can handle that... I was just under the impression that most situations require that special crimper. :scratch:

Cut it behind the crimp. Double flare it with a fitting. Have a piece of steel braded hose (or rubber hose - not recommended because of heat) made with the right size fitting. That line is wound under the front suspension; not a fun choir of removing.

What you're saying then is that SS braided is NOT commonly sold with ends pre-attached?

'Cos that'd be what I needed to know! Thanks! :salute:

I did the same thing...

I just got a double flare put into a piece of brake line the right size, used the nut from the old fitting and installed it like that. I used compression fittings to join it where I broke it. Its not flexible anymore but my motor does not move much.

Well, that's certainly one way of doing it... My engine is mounted fairly solidly, but I'm concerned that any amount of movement would be a problem for a solid steel line.

I guess I could put a few S bends to take up most of the vibration... I dunno how quickly that'll wear out, though...

Actually, the fuel lines going to the motor were solid from the factory... Hmm... :scratch:

yeah but down low on the fuel lines near the firewall are rubber

But they are still bolted to brackets around the engine bay... :salute:

right, thats why there is rubber :salute:

I did the same thing. And I went to hard line and wore the flare off the end of the tube. you can get some parts stores to make a piece of braided line with a stub of hard line on it. Take the fitting to them that goes into the slave, tell them you want it on a hard line and need a flexible section with a regular 45* flare female end on it.

all else fails, the fiero store has them for like $150 master to slave.

Boscolingus wrote:right, thats why there is rubber :salute:

To deal with regular movement of the firewall relative to the fuel tank?
I always thought the rubber lines there were to facilitate tank removal :la:

cactus bastard wrote:

Boscolingus wrote:right, thats why there is rubber :salute:

To deal with regular movement of the firewall relative to the fuel tank?
I always thought the rubber lines there were to facilitate tank removal :la:

There are rubber lines between the firewall hard lines and the motor. There are also rubber lines between the firewall hard lines and the fuel tank.

oh ok, didn't know about those :blah5:

Mach10 wrote:What you're saying then is that SS braided is NOT commonly sold with ends pre-attached?

'Cos that'd be what I needed to know! Thanks! :salute:

only place i've ever seen braided stainless with ends premade is at paintball shops. they're all 1/8 npt thread, but they usually have a variety of lengths.

the thread in the slave is 12mm x 1.0 bubble flare btw