Real Fiero Tech

Well.. Now that I've gone through a set of tires in about a year... I'm looking to replace every piece of suspension that could break. I mean. The car is 22 years old. Yeah, it has 78000 miles on it so it was taken care of, but I figure if I do it all at once it will make my life a lot easier in the end.

Whats happening to my tires:
The outer edge of my tires are wearing out on the rear. When I got above 65 the car starts to vibrate. BAD. Now we can also look at this from a positive point of view, if the car vibrates, I don't go over 60. This means no speeding tickets :thumbleft:

Here's what I have on my shopping list. (please tell me if I need something else):
Ball joints all around (upper and lower)
Inner and Outer Tie Rods all around
Tie rod Boot?
Strut Mount
Shocks all around.
Springs too!

Anything I'm missing? Would it be worth it to replace the control arms while I'm down there?

Thanks!

Suspension bushings make for happy driving, and a urethane set isnt' even that expensive.

Just be aware that you might have to hunt around for appropriate bolts. I've YET to be able to remove a Fiero suspension bushing without having to cut the fucking bolt out.

Or maybe just invest in an air hammer... Whatever. Point being, you will have to dig a little, but I've been able to find bolts for every peice on that car from aftermarket sources--just never at the same store.

Vibration at speed is usually balance, although it could also be a bent wheel/rim (although this is usually noticeable at slower speeds, too). Also look for warped brake rotors, or a fried out axle halfshaft joint.

Funny story; I had a vibration problem that only appeared at 100kph (~60mph) and it turned out to be about a quart of water on the inside of the wheel. God only knows how that worked it's way in there.

I don't think theres water in my wheel or anything for that matter. Because it did it when I got the most recent set of tires it still vibrated, just not as bad.

Will a air drill? work the same as the hammer?

I don't think it's my rotors either because I just replaced them about 2 or 3 months ago (along with 2 rear calipers).

The air hammer is useful because there isn't enough room to swing against most of the bushing bolts... Not that it matters; once they are frozen in good, they aren't usually coming out.

Humm... maybe my brother has one...

Do you guys prefer Haynes over Chilton's? or the other way around. I have a Haynes Manual, but would it be worth it to buy a Chilton's? My brother is the mechanic of the family so I'm sure we won't have any problems that would need two manuals for (He'll probably watch to make sure I don't screw something up).

They both suck, though I think Haynes sucks less.

The best, by far, is the Factory Service Manual for your car's year. They're on ebay almost all the time.

www.helminc.com

Cheap at $80.

I just thought of this.

Would it be worth it to wait and find an 88's cradle and swap that in (with plans to swap a 3800SC or something in the future)?

Will my 2point5 fit on the 88 cradle? Would I still need everything that I'm buying now? Would I need a 88 GT cradle? or would I be fine with an 88 2point5