A/F Guage
Moderators: The Dark Side of Will, Series8217
A/F Guage
with the narrow band O2 sensor, when you put in a Air/Fuel guage, you end up with a aguage that slams back & forth from rich to lean. has anyone ever come up with a cicuit/filter to average these out, so its a more useable guage? would just a small capacitor in line do it?
not a electronics guy, but whenever someone tries to smooth something out, they seem to always throw a capacitor on....or is it a coil? I dunno...maybe both?
not a electronics guy, but whenever someone tries to smooth something out, they seem to always throw a capacitor on....or is it a coil? I dunno...maybe both?
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what ryan posted will basically feed your meter with a voltage. The big OHM resistor makes for low current and slow charging of the capacitor. The voltaage is coming from the positive side of the capacitor. Its like reading your o2 sensor through molases. It may work by feeding your gauge, but whats it telling you, that you can get an inacurate and sluggish signal from your o2 sensor? I doubt if you did get it to work it would give you acurate enough data to do anything but make your gauge look like its working.
I aplaud ryan for not just saying go spend $$$ but Unfortunalty I dont think it will work.
Give me a little more information and I may be able to come up with a circuit. What is the output voltage of your o2 sensor from top to bottom of the range, and what is the input voltage of your sensor from swing to swing.
Its very possible and may be cheap to build.
I aplaud ryan for not just saying go spend $$$ but Unfortunalty I dont think it will work.
Give me a little more information and I may be able to come up with a circuit. What is the output voltage of your o2 sensor from top to bottom of the range, and what is the input voltage of your sensor from swing to swing.
Its very possible and may be cheap to build.
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It's normal for the o2 to read this way. It's called crosscounting. When the engine is running in closed loop, the ecm does this to adjust the mixture and keep the catalytic converter operating properly. When the engine is operating in open loop (wide open throttle) the ecm uses a programmed value for the mixture, not the o2 sensor. In open loop (wot) the gauge should stabilize and read on the rich side.
Steve
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right - did some more looking into this after I started this.whipped wrote:They're accurate.
But only at 14.7:1 AFR. They can tell you if it's leaner or richer than 14.7:1, but that's about it. You can extrapolate some useful information from them, you might even be able to guesstimate the AFR.
while averageing will help in making it a less jumpy guage, it doesnt help any in trying to do anything other than to see 14.7:1. and thats the ideal number for milage/emmisions, not power.
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Probalbly very true, but that does not change anything. When you say zero crossings, is zero at 14.7, because there should be no negative voltage from the o2 sensor obviously.The Dark Side of Will wrote:With enough zero-crossings to average, it can be accurate. That's the whole idea behind long term fuel trim algorithms implemented by EVERY manufacturer in the market.
either way, it dosent help the gauge issue.
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How hard could it be to build a simple controller to use a wideband sensor though? Data logging may be another issue, but if you just want a gauge for your dash it should be pretty simple. My understanding was that their output was pretty simplistic - nearly linear. You can get new wideband sensors for around sixty bucks, why do the controllers always cost in the hundreds?
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I read this on the MS forums and they say it works great!!Cheap Afr Guage?
hi i have been toying with this idea with mad professor from here.
i have an LC-1 and want an afr guage, however my options are:
i can either spend a silly amount on an xd1 or spend alot less on some cheap budget guage that looks rubbish.
so we were chattingand came up with the idea of setting one of the LC-1 outputs to read
1v @10:1 afr
and
2v @ 20:1 afr
then wire in a Voltmeter that reads 1-2v
this would mean at 1.500V the Afr would be 15:1
etc
using something like this
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/DC-0-2V-50V-3-BLU ... dZViewItem
from ebay.
it should give me an accurate afr reading costs next to nothing and will look quite tidy sunk flush into the dashboard.
http://www.msefi.com/viewtopic.php?p=12 ... ht=#129985
http://www.msefi.com/viewtopic.php?t=21617
All that fucking around for a Autometer gauge that costs 50 bucks and works FINE with a LC1? Sounds stupid.
Then you can say "see that voltmeter gauge? yeah that my AF but i was too cheap to spend the other 10 bucks for a quality correct gauge"
Then you can say "see that voltmeter gauge? yeah that my AF but i was too cheap to spend the other 10 bucks for a quality correct gauge"
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