I'm at a crossroads with the future of my motor

[goatnipples2002]

Fab a way for an M90 or other SC

Boost it with a turbo.

My budget is between $1k-1.5k

What would you do?

If I boost it this spring than I can build it in the fall after the track closes and the streets are empty, but on the other hand I could build it and not have to worry about it, but then I'd have to put it away in the fall anyways. I really want to build it but I also need to be faster for the races this year.

[Series8217]

Save up your money for awhile. Nothing is really in your budget except maybe a standard rebuild.

[goatnipples2002]

I could do any of the 3 for the budget I listed.

Forged piston, forged 327 rods, all bearings, severe duty head gaskets, arp head/main studs and rod bolts.

Custom turbo or super kit less than $1500


I guess it really depends on your skill level, creativity and how much you are willing to do.

[stimpy]

Well, get down with your bad self.


I personally think that if I were in your position, I would build the engine so it could handle the boost later on. But that's me. I'm not known as being the most skilled or creative individual.

[Series8217]

I could do any of the 3 for the budget I listed.

Forged piston, forged 327 rods, all bearings, severe duty head gaskets, arp head/main studs and rod bolts. $1200-1300

I think you're wrong. Do you have your own machine shop?
The rods don't just drop in. They need to be machined by someone who knows what the heck they are doing. The small ends need to be bushed for the smaller 60v6 wrist pins (or use custom pistons that take SBC wrist pins), and the big ends need to be trimmed down in width and new bearing notches machined. Then you need to have the wrist pins and pistons installed onto the rods; which requires some special equipment unless you go for a full floating wrist pin setup.
The block needs to be bored and honed. You should line hone the mains as well. You'll need to balance your rotating assembly if you're going to do it right. You need a full gasket set plus whatever special head gaskets you need. What about the heads? Head work isn't cheap. Have your own valve grinding machine?
What about rings?
Timing chain and sprocket set?
Camshaft? Valve springs? Cam bearings?
Yes, you can do a half-assed refresh (I wouldn't call it a rebuild) for under $1.5k. It won't last because whatever you didn't replace or rebuild is a weak link.

[goatnipples2002]

I had a brand new motor that I installed last october. The rods need to be shaved on the big ends, Then have the bearings cut the same so no need for the tange to be recut, Use SBC cam bearings...cheap and easy to install. I already have a comp cams K-kit.

I do understand what you mean though there are alot of "hidden" charges when building a motor. I have a local shop that gives me dirt cheap prices because they do a ton of high end big boy shit and they love to do custom stuff.

I'm leaning towards boost now and build later.

I forgot to add machine costs that was just parts total...my bad.

[Series8217]

I would go with the forged internals, then. Build it right. Then boost it when you've collected all the goodies down the road and it won't blow up.

[donk_316]

The word is "engine" NOT "motor"!

<pet peeve>

[The Dark Side of Will]

Motors turn by the application of electricity. Motors start engines.

As long as you keep the boost reasonable, you can turbo a stock engine (2.8? 3.4?) and have a big chunk of fun, then build it over next winter and have even more fun next spring. If you build it now, you won't have a whole lot more performance than stock until you turbo it in the winter.

IOW, your fun integral is greater by turboing now and building later... as long as you can exercise the restraint necessary to not overboost a stock engine.

[goatnipples2002]

I was kinda thinking I should boost it now and build later.

Series8217 have you boosted and blown engines? Many have boosted stock engines and no problems.

It is settled boost it now.

[TrotFox]

Motors turn by the application of electricity. Motors start engines.

As long as you keep the boost reasonable, you can turbo a stock engine (2.8? 3.4?) and have a big chunk of fun, then build it over next winter and have even more fun next spring. If you build it now, you won't have a whole lot more performance than stock until you turbo it in the winter.

IOW, your fun integral is greater by turboing now and building later... as long as you can exercise the restraint necessary to not overboost a stock engine.

Bah! A motor is any device that converts one some form of energy into motion. And engine is a motor that converts chemical energy into rotory motion. Unless you want to go esoteric... siege engine for example.

Isn't it wonderful to use a living language?

Red 5spd Formula
Trot, the flexible, fox...

[Series8217]

Series8217 have you boosted and blown engines? Many have boosted stock engines and no problems.

Not yet.

I just know I would be too tempted to turn up the boost until it blows up and then build a new one from scratch rather than going the cheaper route that Will describes or building it strong to begin with.

[Shaun41178(2)]

no offense but I think $1500 for a turbo setup isn't realistic. Especially if you plan to use quality parts. Now if you choose to use cheap ebay turbo parts, then yea you can probably spend that much. But how well is it going to work? How much power you going to make? And how long with the turbo components last?

If the parts that yuo buy don't last, then that means you have to buy them all over again spending even more time and money. So I am saying it could cost you more in the long run.

A trully good setup is going to run you around $3k

[p8ntman442]

unless you dont use -AN fittings then $1500 is feasable. :thumbleft:

[The Dark Side of Will]

Motors turn by the application of electricity. Motors start engines.

As long as you keep the boost reasonable, you can turbo a stock engine (2.8? 3.4?) and have a big chunk of fun, then build it over next winter and have even more fun next spring. If you build it now, you won't have a whole lot more performance than stock until you turbo it in the winter.

IOW, your fun integral is greater by turboing now and building later... as long as you can exercise the restraint necessary to not overboost a stock engine.

Bah! A motor is any device that converts one some form of energy into motion. And engine is a motor that converts chemical energy into rotory motion. Unless you want to go esoteric... siege engine for example.

Isn't it wonderful to use a living language?

Red 5spd Formula
Trot, the flexible, fox...

The distinction between motors and engines is a subtle one. A vacuum motor (or pneumatic motor) moves when you apply vacuum (or pressure); a linear electric motor moves when you apply electricity to it; a rotating motor spins when you apply electricity...

But an engine doesn't turn over just because you squirt fuel into it.

Motors don't have idle states. Engines do. Engines can't start themselves. Motors can.

[goatnipples2002]

Yeah shaun you do have a point about shitty parts. The m90/62 sounds like may plan B.

[The Dark Side of Will]

Absolutely.
There's never enough time to do things right in the first place. There's ALWAYS enough time to REdo them right later.