Note that I am not a professional safety equipment builder, and I do NOT recommend building your harness bar the same way I built mine! Use a professional race shop and install a roll bar if you intend to use a race harness. Race harnesses harness bars and roll bars are NOT to be used on the street.
Two holes midway up the B-pillar are uncovered by peeling back a rubber sheet:
I designed a bracket to go over these holes. I mock up all my brackets in cardboard, then trace them onto the material to be cut on a bandsaw, and bend it using my vice and a hammer or adjustable wrench:
This is a mockup of the inner/backing bracket that goes inside the B-pillar:
There is a hole at the bottom of the B-pillar that's big enough to fit my arm through to feed the inner backing plate into place. I had two M12 nuts welded to the backing plate so I don't have to fumble with nuts on the inside.
I bent the harness bar from 1.5" OD, 0.120" thickness 4130 "chrome moly" steel using a JD Squared Model 32 manual bender:
The "hump" clears the center console. Without the center console in place, the bar can be straight.
The brackets (inner and outer) were cut from 3/16" 4130 steel plate and bent in my vice:
I may add another M8 or M12 bolt in the 3rd hole, but I don't think it's really necessary.
If anti-rotation bars are desired, the main harness bar can be tied into plate bolted to the OE shoulder belt mounting points. Here are mockups of some brackets for this purpose:
The bracket shown mocked up in cardboard would be made from 3/16" 4130 steel plate and would be tied into the main harness bar with 1.5" OD 0.120" wall thickness tubes. This can help prevent the main harness bar from rotating forward when the shoulder harnesses pull on it in a collision.
When I have enough parts ready to fill a large batch, I'll probably have the harness bar powdercoated. Some race teams don't powdercoat or paint their roll cages or harness bars, so that it's easier to inspect for cracks. However, some surface rust will develop over time.